Thinking about purchasing a roto baler to make a small amount of hay. I have never been around one and need to know what to look for. It does need a couple belts and a good going over. It was used a few years ago on some steep hillsides but has been sitting outside. I would be using it on my JD 530 or JD 730. What our your thoughts on these?
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The key to making good bales is to make a good windrow. Two curls side by side. You need to stop at each bale to allow the twine to wrap. Use binder twine, commonly in 16,000 foot balls, often used on big round bales. Upper Midwest AC Club has a good booklet on operation of the baler. There are endless belts available for replacement, but it"s major work to install...then I"d put in the entire set. There are laced belts available for individual replacement. I paid $200 for my baler, about the same visual condition as what you"re looking at.
 
Just my two cents,

If you have plenty of time and patience and enjoy working on old projects, then buy the baler and go for it,

But if you really want to bale some hay, I would buy a new Holland baler or John Deere baler, sq baler.

They have the top name in balers,

Note to file: An old baler can really test a mans patience,

You must have a backup plan, whether you buy the roto baler or other brand,

your hay is on the ground, baler will not work, you have to do something or you will lose your crop,

My experience, I had one of these roto balers, looked great beside this one, I never did get it to make a bale, just saying!!
Good luck,
 
The only trouble I've had in recent years with mine is trying to find the chain links that attach the slats to. After some trial and error I have welded a few. Point being some of the wear parts are getting hard to come by for these old girls. My dad could make them bale no matter what, I wish I had paid more attention to what he was doing.
 
Tractornut, they are very easy to operate, no needles to break or get out of time. As you are standing behind the baler looking forward look at the lower right corner, you will see a brake drum, make sure you loosen the brake band and pop it loose from the drum. You will need to do this before you start the baler, it is normal for this to stick after it sets for a couple of weeks. Make sure you oil everything under the hood liberlly. There is a twine tension disk under the hood that is 2piece, a small spring puts tension the 2piece disk, putting tension on the twine. Make sure the disk separates easily. If anyone there is an experienced operator, it would be helpful to have them show you how to operate it. Remember, the twine knife must be kept were sharp. I used the replace mine every 10000 bales. I think they are no longer available from Agco. With common sense anyone can run one.
 
I've passed up a few of these in this condition for $2.oo. THats right. two bucks. wish i had grabbed them and held on now.First two things to buy when starting farming. a heavy duty pickup and decent trailor.!!! That being said, there was a couple of articles in farm show magazine of dairy farmers in new york that had several of them and loved them!After i get my JD 24t bought and home and under some cover I al going to find one of these!The wd andwd45 and d series hand clutches worked real good wiith these balers
 
My previous post must have been too long because it would not let me finish. MAKE SURE YOU SHUT OFF THE PTO WHEN WORKING ON THE BALER. IT CAN SUCK YOU INTO THE PRESS ROLLERS FASTER THAN YOU CAN GET AWAY!!! I know several men who have lost arms because they did not shut it off.
 
More info, you will need the ball and socket hitch. As you are standing behind the baler looking forward, on the left side of the baler is a slip clutch. Do yourself a big favor, take it spart when you first get the baler, make sure it is not rusted and stuck together. When you put it back together do NOT grease it. Never grease it, if you do, you will have trouble with it slipping till you get the grease pounded out of it.
 
Allis Chalmers had their own style hitch. It is kind of like a modern day truck/trailer ball set up, but a little different.

Both of my combines had the hitch, but my buddys baler doesn't, it is just a pin hitch, but we know it was bought to be used behind a JD, so, I think unless it was bought new to go on an Allis, it will probably have a pin hitch. If not, a conversion is pretty easy.

Leave it to AC to be "different" . . . . :p
 
At that time everyone was "different". Tractors all looked, drove and sounded completely different. Combines had all different systems and styles. Balers had many different options throughout the brands. Everyone had different hydraulic couplers.

If you ask me it was better when things were "different".
 
The ball hitch was similar to today"s ball hitch, but there was a ring along with it that engaged a locking mechanism on the bottom side of the assembly on the baler. IIRC, late model Roto Balers had a conventional yoke (pin) hitch, but even the early ones could be changed over easily. AC used the ball hitch on balers, combines, pto rakes, and silage blowers. It was a more secure system than any pin hitch could be.
 
I just picked up a new set of 12 belts for my roto-baler today. The local NH dealer found them thru an aftermarket supplier for about $500. Notice the one on the left has the over drive to fast tie a bale.
 
There will be a different 90 deg gearbox that is substancially larger. This baler is built prior to the fast wrap option. Also call Agrimson Tool Co and buy a spring kit. Their number is 763-566-3446. Get the correct springs, that will help with operation.

Jim
 
My grandpa used one. He tried it with a JD 630 the constant starting and stopping for the bale to tie was hard on the clutch. He did get a wd45 to run it. The allis clutch system worked the best.
 
Maxwell90 is telling you right. If you're just look for a mechanicing challenge as a way to spend your spare time then an AC round baler sitting so long brush has grown up through it is the answer. If you really have hay to deal with then it's a disaster waiting to happen.
 

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