(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

Timing

M

Mpat70

Member
Can I set the timing in my D14 with the G149 gas engine with it all assembled? I have valve tapping set 0.012" gap and points set at 0.020" but I need to dial in the timing because I have backlash.[/list]
 
Gap the points correctly, crank it over by hand, the points should open at TDC, move distributor until it does, keep cranking it over again until you get it right.

No need to worry about backlash.
 
Ignition timing can be initially set ( by a skilled engine tech) to get the engine running and not kick back against the starter and break the starter drive. Final ignition timing will be completed by a skilled Tech using an electric timing light !!! With the engine running at wide-open throttle, connect the timing light to the front spark plug wire and shine the flashing light inside the thumb sized hole on the side of the bell housing on the right side. Rotate the distributor clockwise or counterclockwise until you see the "F-25" or "FIRE" or "F" mark on the flywheel and set it to this number at wide open speed and lock down the distributor. Now, there are some Techs who can actually time an engine without a timing light......and there are many who think they can, but in reality, if they ever used a light, they'd find out how far off they've been. There are many of the newer gas tractor engines that have compression at 8 to 1 that you'd better use a light or you will have engine damage doing it by "ear".
 
So you do have it running? Static timing can be set very accurately. But if you already have it running, the way to get it right is as DrAllis says- with a timing light. Have you made sure the advance is working/lubricated?
 
(quoted from post at 05:56:53 01/02/16) So you do have it running? Static timing can be set very accurately. But if you already have it running, the way to get it right is as DrAllis says- with a timing light. Have you made sure the advance is working/lubricated?
Click to expand...

Sorry but what an advance?
 
The "advance mechanism" is built into the distributor. When you have the ignition timing adjusted at wide-open throttle to F-25, then idle the engine way down very slow and the flywheel mark will change to approximately TDC. This means the advance is working properly. Caution.....the important thing is to reach F-25 (25 degrees advanced) at wide open speeds. Your engine may not actually retard all the way down to TDC if the engine isn't running slow enough, like 400 RPM's or less and that is of no concern.
 
How I was shown back in the 1950's, which still works for me. Set the non running engine up to TDC on the compression stroke at number one spark plug. With the distributor rotor pointing toward number one wire terminal rotate the distributor base back and fourth watching the points and lock the distributor down where the points are at the point where they are just ready to open. Set with a timing light when running for the proper advance for that engine. Without a timing light you can get real close by listening on the older engines. Your engine will have the flywheel marked for proper advance with a FIRE line.

The hick up when running if only the rain cap bouncing might be normal for this engine.
 
(quoted from post at 06:36:48 01/02/16) The "advance mechanism" is built into the distributor. When you have the ignition timing adjusted at wide-open throttle to F-25, then idle the engine way down very slow and the flywheel mark will change to approximately TDC. This means the advance is working properly. Caution.....the important thing is to reach F-25 (25 degrees advanced) at wide open speeds. Your engine may not actually retard all the way down to TDC if the engine isn't running slow enough, like 400 RPM's or less and that is of no concern.
Click to expand...

OK so I set my points at .025 gap. Set the tapping .0808 intake and .014 exhaust. With #1 and #4 at TDC respectively. Bought a timing light and followed your instructions carefully and now she is purring like a kitten.Thank You!!
 
Points are normally set at .020"......tappets are .015" COLD on both intake and exhaust (this is my spec and easy to do)........... .008" on intakes is too tight !!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

J
Timing a 4630 pumps
Replies
5
Views
227
Dieseltech
D
P
Timing using vacuum
Replies
11
Views
390
560Dennis
560Dennis
S
Timing on 1941 9N
Replies
11
Views
441
Tim PloughNman Daley RIP
T
B
Timing Jig back in production
Replies
18
Views
939
Bruce (VA)
B
That_guy
8N Destroyed camshaft timing gear, what did I do wrong?
Replies
11
Views
385
mhb@ufe
M
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top