Can i prime the oil pump on my D14?

Mpat70

Member
Well i have my D14 put back together and had it started and running fine, then i heard a wierd noise from the block area and shut her down immediately. I dropped the oil pan and the #1 cylinder, connecting rod area was completely dry. Removef the valve cover gadket and tge #1 cylinder valve area was dry as well.
Question: doed the oil pump need primed or is the pump dead? No oil pressure either.
 
Do you have the correct oil filter on it?? Theses old A/C tractor use a back pressure oil filter to build oil pressure and if you have the wrong filter on you will not have oil pressure
 
Yes, they need to be primed because they are a long ways from the oil pan. You'll have to disconnect the oil line connected to the oil pump and squirt some oil into the fitting on the pump. I'd turn the engine (by hand) backwards 1/4 turn and squirt some more oil into the pump. I'd do this for two full revolutions and quickly reconnect the line and start the engine. I'd also have a 30 psi oil pressure gauge directly on the filter base for this start-up. Did you have the oil pump and camshaft removed from the engine?? More details would be nice.
 
(quoted from post at 18:38:55 12/30/15) Yes, they need to be primed because they are a long ways from the oil pan. You'll have to disconnect the oil line connected to the oil pump and squirt some oil into the fitting on the pump. I'd turn the engine (by hand) backwards 1/4 turn and squirt some more oil into the pump. I'd do this for two full revolutions and quickly reconnect the line and start the engine. I'd also have a 30 psi oil pressure gauge directly on the filter base for this start-up. Did you have the oil pump and camshaft removed from the engine?? More details would be nice.

No sir It is in the frame. I did an in frame overhaul because the #4 connecting rod nuts were not torqued and as a result the rod cap came loose and benthe the rod, chipped the sleeve, and bottom of piston #4. Since the crankshaft was uninjured I was able to do it all inframe. Now also this tractor has been sitting for years before I aquire it a couple months back. Still haven't been able to drive it you.
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The way I do it is remove the oil filter and place a gas line hose over the stand pipe in the filter base. I have a hose long enough to go over the rocker arms. I fill the hose with engine oil and let it seep down for a few minutes and re fill the hose. I start the engine and watch the oil run over the rocker arms. I then replace the filter and start the engine making sure it has oil pressure and set the valve cover over the rocker arms and let it warm up. I then re torque the head and re adjust the valve lash before replacing the valve cover for good. Takes all the guessing out of it for me because I see the oil flowing out of the pump thru the hose.
 
A new, clean $15.00 pump-up garden sprayer with a couple of quarts of engine oil in it adapted to connect to the oil gauge port will fill the complete internal oiling system, prime the oil pump, and pre-lube the bearings.

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/N%20Ford/OilPrimer.jpg">

(IGNORE the SBC engine, and envision yours in it's place, hey the color's darned near right!)!
 
Thanks for the advice. I did this step by step and it worked .. n9w im runnung at shy of 30psi. I think its good.
 
I am not sure it would work all that well on this type of oil system. The path of least resistance on this engine would be back into the pan.
 

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