Have to do some work on my hydraulic pump on the wd45 with wide front. Can I just remove the right side frame rail to make it easier to access? I know I don't have to but only have 1 arm so its hard to get pump out normal way. Should I throw a jack under motor or will it be fine with just the one rail. Thanks for the help
- Thread starter Andy Keil
- Start date
Ted in NE-OH
Well-known Member
Yes, if you drain the tranny oil first as it will pore out where the belt pulley goes
Bob Bancroft
Well-known Member
- Location
- Aurora NY
Without the tractor or literature in front of me, I'm thinking that would be hyd. oil? It's irritating that I can't remember things like this any more!
Bob Bancroft
Well-known Member
- Location
- Aurora NY
Good question. I've done it on other tractors, but not one of these. Without any load on the tractor, one rail should hold it fine.
Sounds like you could use some real help, but I don't suppose you're anywhere near central NY?
Sounds like you could use some real help, but I don't suppose you're anywhere near central NY?
Aaron SEIA
Well-known Member
Might not hurt to block the engine just to keep the left rail from twisting.
AaronSEIA
AaronSEIA
Just to be safe, I"d block up under the clutch housing. After removing all the side rail bolts, (maybe leave one in loosely, at the rear) use a log splitting wedge to loosen the front of the rail from the steering casting. Working alone, it wouldn"t hurt to tie a couple of ropes to the side rail, and tie them off on the other side of the tractor.
I would think it would just be easier to get some help and remove the pump with frame rail in place. The front four bolts on the rail that go into the front bolster are prone to twisting off and their will be oil coming out of the belt pulley drive housing as well as you trying to handle the frame rail by yourself. When you do get to the pump there are two usually hidden by dirt nuts that need to be removed. Keep us posted as to how you make out. Mark
tractorguy2
Well-known Member
Make more since to remove the pump. it will come out the bottom with out removing the frame rail. I did it to my 45 diesel. I had to remove the battery box to get the wrench on the steel line. Yours being a gas has a smaller box might not have to remove the battery box.
Ive done it a few times. You will have to drain the trans and if you want to support the trans it won't hurt but its not nessicary. Just a thought does it have a narrow or wide front? Im thinking if it has a wide front it may require additional support but not sure. Ive only done it on a narrow.
Bob Bancroft
Well-known Member
- Location
- Aurora NY
Thank you. I thought so. (See my comments below).
I am aware that they are supposed to be now that
you mention it. Thanks for the refresher. I can also
tell you on everyone that I've ever been into you will
drain the transmission if you want that compartment
empty. I realize this isn't correct but I've never seen
one that still had that still intact.
you mention it. Thanks for the refresher. I can also
tell you on everyone that I've ever been into you will
drain the transmission if you want that compartment
empty. I realize this isn't correct but I've never seen
one that still had that still intact.
jr1983, a couple of explanations for your experiences. The tractor in the pic is 60 years old & never resealed, but with 80W90 in the wet clutch/PTO/tranny/diff, the heavy oil still does not pour through the seal separating these chambers from the hydraulic reservoir. However, if using light hy-trans oil in all chambers, your experience may differ.
Also if the shaft whose end is showing in the middle-left of the picture is missing, the PTO drive has been removed and all the chambers become interconnected.
Also if the shaft whose end is showing in the middle-left of the picture is missing, the PTO drive has been removed and all the chambers become interconnected.
I wasn't trying to be sarcastic. Everything you've said
is correct. I should have said to drain both
compartments on the off chance the seal is still
partially there. I wish I had a video of oil going in the
hydraulic fill port of my wd. 80w90 will run straight
out the bottom almost instantly. Because these
tractors are 60 years old most have not been
resealed I would be very suprised if theres anything
to keep it from pouring through. I could be wrong but
unless its remarkably well preserved or has been
replaced my experience says it might as well not be
in there.
is correct. I should have said to drain both
compartments on the off chance the seal is still
partially there. I wish I had a video of oil going in the
hydraulic fill port of my wd. 80w90 will run straight
out the bottom almost instantly. Because these
tractors are 60 years old most have not been
resealed I would be very suprised if theres anything
to keep it from pouring through. I could be wrong but
unless its remarkably well preserved or has been
replaced my experience says it might as well not be
in there.
I just removed and replaced the hydraulic pump on my WD45. It can be done by removing items that are in the way such as the hold position assy. on top, control rods etc. Also the PTO shift lever and rod. After removing the attaching bolts and nuts, tip the pump toward the frame rail. Then depress the rollers and insert a large nail slightly bent, from the top down, to hold each roller in the depressed position. Rotate the pump (clockwise if I remember correctly). In the upside down position, the pump will just about fall out from behind the frame rail. Reverse to install the pump. The dealer shop manual instructed the removal of the frame rail with the removal and complete disassembly and assembly and install of the pump to take 10 hours. Check out my web site. Duey
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