D14 crank won't turn

Mpat70

Member
Ok. I am not much of a mechanical guy so this is my issue and would appreciate any helpful information. I pulled the head of my 4cylinder gas G149 engine. I replaced a broken sleeve, broken piston, and bent connecting rod. The crankshaft was in good shape so I was able to do this inframe. The rear piston was the one damaged but the second from the front was oily so I also replaced the rings. I put new bearings and when I tightened the rod bolts down I cannot get the crank to turn. Turns good when the bolts are loose? What did I do wrong?
 
#1 did you prelube the rod bearings when you installed them??
#2 do you have the correct size bearings since the crank could have been turned at some time so the wrong bearing will cause that.
#3 if all is as it should be yes the crank can be hard to run due to the new parts but that all said if you did not mike the crank it could have a problem that you can not see with your eyes
 
The first thing to check is if you have the rods in the right direction. the rods are offset and when in back wards they will bind. With this engine the only other thing I can think of is wrong rod bearings.
 
Thanks guys for the advice. I thint the problem was two fold; first I tightened the connecting rod bolts to 60lbs and upon closer reading I only needed 40lbs. The second was no lube on the bearings.
 
I hope you did not touch the bearing surface with a dry finger. If you did in year to come your finger print will still be there unless it throws a bearing. Learned that one years ago when I rebuilt an engine and found finger prints on the bearings. A humans finger has aicd on them that will leave a mark on bearings. Learned to coat my finger with oil when working on engines and parts
 
Torqueing those bolts to 60 pounds (could have) stretched them to the breaking point or weakened them at the very least. I personally would not trust the rod bolts after being torqued to 60 foot pounds. However torqueing them to 60 foot pounds should not make the bearing clearance less. That rod would have been machined for the correct bearing shell while being torqued on flat solid surfaces. For sure the pre-lube of all moving surfaces is a detail that need not be missed and can cause a failed rebuild.
 


OLD, does the D-14 still use bearing Shims, as the WD series used..??

If it uses shims, you have to "Fit" each Rod Bearing to the crank individually...

Ron..
 

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