ALLIS CHALMERS D17 HEADACHE

Im going to try and explain my issue as detailed as possible. im on the staff duty desk today (active army) so ive got some time to kill lol....thank you in advance to anyone who helps

d17 gas with farm hand loader

I was told it may need a new clutch when i bought it, for next to nothing. after driving it, that doesnt seem to be the case

goes into all gears smoothly, no leaks of any fluids, cranks right up, and idles fine, bucket works well

my issue is that once the tractor is warmed up, it gets gutless...the wheel will barely turn, and ultimately will stop completely...unless i hit the tilt lever on my bucket....at that point it throttles up and will begin to creep forward.....my hand lever on the right seems to go into both positions, though it doesnt "snap" like it should

whats my issue here fellas??
 
I am guessing you have the high/low leave moved to either high or low right?? If you do not know it, it is the lever on the right side just in front of your right foot. Forward is high center is neutral and back is low. Now if you have that lever moved as you should it the power director maybe going out and will do just as you say if it is.
 
Hard to say with out more info. When the power director is in neutral it will tend to move when in gear but as it gets warm it will not move as much so are you putting the power director in high or low or leaving it in neutral??
 
Im no expert but I would say the linkage is not
pulling the power director valve far enough into gear.
It may brew new pins and such. As one old staff duty
vet to another have fun.
 
easy thing to do; check that the setscrew on the bottom of the PD lever has not come loose or even fallen out.
 
What series d17? Serial number? When you say wheel barely turning, you mean the drive wheel, not the steering wheel? The hand clutch has no valve- it is all mechanical. There is no torque converter. Power Director (hand clutch) should snap into position, locking into forward or rear position. That may be an adjustment problem, or worn discs inside the tractor. Is the setscrew tight on the bottom end of the handle, so it fully engages the cross shaft? I&T AC 17 service manual will explain the clutch details.
 
The long handle HIGH-Neutral-LOW lever has a total stroke of nearly 3 feet. Engage the tractors PTO and when the tractor quits moving, if the PTO also stops turning, the foot clutch is slipping.
 
Check that the clutch pedal has some free play as in as you step on the pedal there should be an inch or more before you feel real pressure if you do not have any feel play the clutch may need to be adjusted
 
pedal does need some work....the bar is loose, and it looks like theres at least one snap ring missing on the pedal itself...lots of lateral play
 
Lay on your back underneath the flywheel area. There is a hole about the size of a baseball (that might have a metal cover snapped over it) to access the clutch. Look thru the hole with a flashlite. There should be at least 1/4" air gap between the three pressure plate fingertips and the throwout bearing. Each finger has an adjustment bolt and nut. If there is an air gap, no adjustment is needed. If the is no gap, loosen each adjustment bolt until there is 1/4" MINIMUM and see what you've got then. This is not easy to do as the space is very limited and you must rotate the engine for each finger. You also get good at holding a flashlite in your mouth while wrenching. Make all gaps the same if you change anything. 1/4" gap is a good place to start.
 

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