Do I pull my g149 engine to overhaul or leave it in frame?

Mpat70

Member
I have a 1959 Allis Chalmers D14 with a g149 gas burner. The engine stopped suddenly and I dropped the oil pan to discover the connecting arm on the #2 piston had come loose, broke, and jammed inside the block. My question is do I really need to pull the engine or can I overhaul it in the frame? Part of the #2 piston is broken so I know I have to replace the Pistons and connecting rods.
 
The crank probably needs to be turned and that requires that you split the tractor to remove the crank. If you took the bearing cap off of the broken rod you will see the crank is scored. LOL Bob
 
Thrown rod means bad crank shaft so yes you need to pull the engine or a rebuild will be throwing away all your hard work and $$$ big time. Any time a rod is thrown like that you crank shaft will be out of round and scored so it will need to be turned or replaced and the only way to pull the crank out is to pull the engine out
 
It will depend on what you can see. Did the piston rod break above journal and it was still fasten to the crank. If so then the journal may be okay. If I thought the journal was okay I would leave it in and pull the pistons for inspection. Don't know if your motor is sleeved or not but you wont know how much damage if there is any to the cylinder walls or block until you remove the piston. I would not pull the motor unless I had to. Just my 3 cents worth. Norm
 
Rods don't just break. I'm with the others, that rod journal at best needs dressed and at worst took the crank with it. Out comes the engine.
AaronSEIA
 
The last engine I saw break a connecting rod, it broke right in the middle of the beam. The other three rods all had vise marks on their beams in the same place. Apparently, whomever overhauled it last, clamped each con rod in a vise real tight to change the pistons. Leaving teeth marks like that on a rod beam is sure to break years down the road.
 
if something like this happened in my motor I would want to get it on a stand flip it over and inspect everything with to a t to make sure a new rod is all it needed
 
This incident, is only the tip of the iceberg. Remove engine, and perform a total inspection of all components, as per service manual.
 
One of the first things to do is learn what you are looking at and for, after you get the engine out. I assume by the question that the inside of an engine has not been your livelihood. Easy to miss important imperfections if your not familiar with the details.
 
If the rod just broke and there was no other problem you probably can just replace it. Inspecting the other rods for nicks or vice marks as others have said it wise. Having the engine out so you can turn it sideways or upside down is a huge advantage for working on it and inspection. Just be sure and safe with blocking up the tractor under the bell housing or torque tube. Be careful of the radiator, I just put a core in one and it was nearly $500. Block it up, take off the radiator, then front end, then the engine with a lift or chainfall. And what the others have said.
 
It needs to come out. Like Dick says, if you're not totally familiar with the insides of your engine, start from scratch and fix it right. I've never heard anybody say they regretted doing a top quality job overhauling their engine.
 
(quoted from post at 19:32:32 11/21/15) I have a 1959 Allis Chalmers D14 with a g149 gas burner. The engine stopped suddenly and I dropped the oil pan to discover the connecting arm on the #2 piston had come loose, broke, and jammed inside the block. My question is do I really need to pull the engine or can I overhaul it in the frame? Part of the #2 piston is broken so I know I have to replace the Pistons and connecting rods.

Thanks for all the advice. After pouring over the manuals for the past couple weeks I discovered that I really don't like this wrench turning thing called shade tree mechanicing... but other than that I figured out it was piston rod #4. The nuts came loose and the connecting rod can apart, then loose, then broke the bottom of the sleeve, the bottom of the piston, bent the connecting rod to about a 45° angle. I'm guessing that the nuts were not torqued down properly. The good news is that the crank shafts was not damaged in any way and the head and block had no cracks. The #2 piston was oily so I ordered a piston kit for #4 and a used rod from Tractor Parts ASAP and new rings for #2. I have a wood lathe so I turned a piece of solid oak and made a sleeve puller with a threaded rod saving a "c" note. Anyway got it all put back together and, can't for the life of me, get the two back bolts back in the oil pan. Just no room. Such calamity....
 

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