w d hydraulic

khouse6

Member
allis is new to me . hydraulic lift wants to drift up and down and not stay where i place it. it is a bit low of oil, i think.

check oil in level place, rams extended. 20 weight motor oil. ? will low oil level cause this?
 
I really think, that oil level is not the problem. I beleve it is a simple adjustment of the linkage, and adjustment screws. If you still have a steel battery box on your WD, there should be a decal on the right side of the battery box, that shows you how to adjust the hydraulics for a given use. If it's not there, then look in a manual for the WD or the WD45, and you will find the same picture, to go by. The oil in the chamber, should be level with the check hole, with the cylinders collapsed, or the line on the dipstick if so equipped. 20 wt. non detergent oil was recommended, originally, but very few people use it now days. Most owners are using Hi Tran, from NAPA, or Walmart. The main thing is keep the water out of the tranny, and hydraulic resivour, by installing a new, tight fitting , shifter boot Also drain and replace the 90 wt. oil in the final drive chambers.
 
We bought a new WD in 51 and could never find the spot to make the lift hold. On other WD's we could find the spot, but not this one. Always creeping up or down.
 
took time to fill hydraulic. should have checked for fill, after i ran engine and hydraulic for a while.

found directions that tell how to get lift to hold. screws labeled a b c d. i had to put some oil on them before they will move.

operating manual tells how to adjust linkage. could this be a problem? (linkage out of adjustment)

(quoted from post at 20:07:17 10/16/15) I really think, that oil level is not the problem. I beleve it is a simple adjustment of the linkage, and adjustment screws. If you still have a steel battery box on your WD, there should be a decal on the right side of the battery box, that shows you how to adjust the hydraulics for a given use. If it's not there, then look in a manual for the WD or the WD45, and you will find the same picture, to go by. The oil in the chamber, should be level with the check hole, with the cylinders collapsed, or the line on the dipstick if so equipped. 20 wt. non detergent oil was recommended, originally, but very few people use it now days. Most owners are using Hi Tran, from NAPA, or Walmart. The main thing is keep the water out of the tranny, and hydraulic resivour, by installing a new, tight fitting , shifter boot Also drain and replace the 90 wt. oil in the final drive chambers.
 
We had a loader on a WD45, and it worked fine. When the WD45 got traded, the loader got put over onto the old WD which had been purchased new about 1950. Just like you describe, we could never get the hold control to work. Close, but as you say, creeping one way or the other. After some time I finally got disgusted enough to go after it. I pulled the hold control off it, and compared it to a working one, and made the discovery. The plate/hub(where the screw locks plates together on the side of the hold control valve) is pressed on to the shaft. There's a cam on the inside, on the shaft, which operates the pin and ball which make the hold control work. Apparently the plate and shaft were not indexed properly when pressed together at the factory! No way was it ever going to work like that. I pressed it out, and reassembled it properly. The way the WD had been used for 25-30 years this hadn't been a problem. But now after all those years, it worked!
 
Until you adjust all four screws to the "HOLD" position setting and test it, anything else you try and do would be foolish.
 
Ralphwd45 not to hijack this thread but when you say to replace the oil in the drive units are you still using the 90wt or something different. if so what do you recommend?

Steven
 
I use the 80-90 gear oil, in the final drives, but really hate the job. Most of the used Allis tractors I have acquired, have water in the finals, and old black oil in them, if anything. I have to remove the covers, and clean them first. Generally make my own gaskets.
 

The "Neutral spot" will get easier to find as you USE the tractor (and it is NOT any defined "spot")...!!

We have always just used same oil as used in the engine for the hydraulics..

Ron.
 
i believe that i have all the screws properly adjusted for the hold position. i will give it a run tomorrow. is there anyone of you, in middle
tennessee area that have a drawbar for a w d, for sale?
 
w d has a little dip stick, to check hydraulic. manual says to check with cylinders extended.

i have made screw adjustments. still cannot get drawbar to stay where i want it to. looking for fixed drawbar. thanks

(quoted from post at 20:07:17 10/16/15) I really think, that oil level is not the problem. I beleve it is a simple adjustment of the linkage, and adjustment screws. If you still have a steel battery box on your WD, there should be a decal on the right side of the battery box, that shows you how to adjust the hydraulics for a given use. If it's not there, then look in a manual for the WD or the WD45, and you will find the same picture, to go by. The oil in the chamber, should be level with the check hole, with the cylinders collapsed, or the line on the dipstick if so equipped. 20 wt. non detergent oil was recommended, originally, but very few people use it now days. Most owners are using Hi Tran, from NAPA, or Walmart. The main thing is keep the water out of the tranny, and hydraulic resivour, by installing a new, tight fitting , shifter boot Also drain and replace the 90 wt. oil in the final drive chambers.
 
okay, i adjusted screws as described. hydraulic arms still drift.
looking for a fixed drawbar. that will fix it. sigh

 
If you noticed on the lowest screw (screw "A") there was a divot/pocket on the side of the hydraulic pump body for this screw to fit into. Sometimes one must rotate the lever just a bit counterclockwise to get the screw "A" to fit inside the divot/pocket. With screw "A" correctly positioned into the divot/pocket, the drawbar has no effect on what the hydraulic pump does.....nothing !!!.... because you have locked the hyd pump out from drawbar control by doing this.
 
thanks, i may have missed that point.

(quoted from post at 03:55:54 10/27/15) If you noticed on the lowest screw (screw "A") there was a divot/pocket on the side of the hydraulic pump body for this screw to fit into. Sometimes one must rotate the lever just a bit counterclockwise to get the screw "A" to fit inside the divot/pocket. With screw "A" correctly positioned into the divot/pocket, the drawbar has no effect on what the hydraulic pump does.....nothing !!!.... because you have locked the hyd pump out from drawbar control by doing this.
 
screws set to hold position. draw bar still drifts. manual says to set draw bar to position and then move lever to detente position. where is the detente position?

(quoted from post at 13:27:36 10/17/15) Until you adjust all four screws to the "HOLD" position setting and test it, anything else you try and do would be foolish.
 
Smack dab in the middle of up and down. I had a hard time getting my lift arms to stay put. What are you doing that needs them to stay? Find a drawbar to use if you are only pulling hitch equipment.
AaronSEIA
 
pulling drag type bush hog. front is digging in the dirt or hip high.

thanks


(quoted from post at 02:32:48 10/31/15) Smack dab in the middle of up and down. I had a hard time getting my lift arms to stay put. What are you doing that needs them to stay? Find a drawbar to use if you are only pulling hitch equipment.
AaronSEIA
 
(quoted from post at 11:51:49 10/30/15) screws set to hold position. draw bar still drifts. manual says to set draw bar to position and then move lever to detente position. where is the detente position? The "detent" (HOLD) position is approximately half-way on the levers stroke and has a "clicking" sound to it, much like when you shift your cars automatic transmission from R to N to F. If the linkage is out of adjustment, the pump still might be trying to pump even when it is in detent (HOLD) position. If this is the case, loosen the square head lock bolt on the selector plates (while in detent) and pull the hand lever down on the quadrant a couple of lines and relock the square head lock bolt. The vertical link rod should have slid downward 1/4" or so by the paint marks on that vertical rod. This is a 30 second adjustment for an old A-C Technician.
 
Might have to put a set of carry wheels on the front of the mower. I haven't been around a lot of WD's, but I've never been around one that will consistently hold a mounted piece of equipment off the ground.
AaronSEIA
 
thanks

(quoted from post at 13:33:27 10/31/15) Might have to put a set of carry wheels on the front of the mower. I haven't been around a lot of WD's, but I've never been around one that will consistently hold a mounted piece of equipment off the ground.
AaronSEIA
 
A couple of things to understand about the WD hydraulics. When you lift the control lever up on the quadrant on the steering wheel, lifting pressure is applied to both rams (hydraulic cylinders). However, when you get the rams in the desired position and put the control lever into the Hold detent, the pressure is trapped in the right cylinder only. The left ram is providing no lift, and the pump is not making up for any lost fluid until you lift the lever again.

If you look down at the right ram and see fluid seeping past the seals on the right ram, you are losing position. The rams are low volume, high pressure, so it doesn't take much to drop the ram out of position.

New packing is available to seal the rams. However, if the 65 year old plungers in the rams have lost the chrome plating, the oil still seeps past and the rough surface tears up the new seals. So, even if you get the Hold position functioning properly, you likely end up driving the WD while sitting sideways and checking the position of the left linkage and front of mower every minute or two.

The PTO of the WD is also very weak, and if you heap much abuse on it with a rotary mower, you will end up replacing PTO gears more often that you will like. So, if you can actually plow earth with the front of the mower, hope that your blades are set high, that you have good skid plates on mower and the trail wheel is full diameter.
 
thanks for the information. never owned an allis before. planned to bush hog with this tractor and 7 foot wide bushhog. maybe i need to trade, for another machine.

(quoted from post at 00:04:22 11/02/15) A couple of things to understand about the WD hydraulics. When you lift the control lever up on the quadrant on the steering wheel, lifting pressure is applied to both rams (hydraulic cylinders). However, when you get the rams in the desired position and put the control lever into the Hold detent, the pressure is trapped in the right cylinder only. The left ram is providing no lift, and the pump is not making up for any lost fluid until you lift the lever again.

If you look down at the right ram and see fluid seeping past the seals on the right ram, you are losing position. The rams are low volume, high pressure, so it doesn't take much to drop the ram out of position.

New packing is available to seal the rams. However, if the 65 year old plungers in the rams have lost the chrome plating, the oil still seeps past and the rough surface tears up the new seals. So, even if you get the Hold position functioning properly, you likely end up driving the WD while sitting sideways and checking the position of the left linkage and front of mower every minute or two.

The PTO of the WD is also very weak, and if you heap much abuse on it with a rotary mower, you will end up replacing PTO gears more often that you will like. So, if you can actually plow earth with the front of the mower, hope that your blades are set high, that you have good skid plates on mower and the trail wheel is full diameter.
 
(quoted from post at 16:27:21 11/01/15) thanks for the information. never owned an allis before. planned to bush hog with this tractor and 7 foot wide bushhog. maybe i need to trade, for another machine.



A seven foot wide brush-cutter on a WD is two feet too wide for that tractor in my books.
 
i am pulling a 5 ft. bush hog with a farmall c. much less horse power than the w d.

w d seems to handle 7 foot o k.

how to tell the difference between w d and w d 45?



(quoted from post at 03:00:25 11/02/15)
(quoted from post at 16:27:21 11/01/15) thanks for the information. never owned an allis before. planned to bush hog with this tractor and 7 foot wide bushhog. maybe i need to trade, for another machine.



A seven foot wide brush-cutter on a WD is two feet too wide for that tractor in my books.
 
I had a 6' pull type behind my WD for a few years. Did just fine, but you didn't want to get into anything real tall. My WD has all WD45 parts in a WD block, but I had the same mower on my WC for a while and it did ok with it too. I'd say a 6' pull type mower would be perfect for a WD.
AaronSEIA
 

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