Wd45 breaks pivot pin puller

I still doun't have the pivot pins out of the brakes
Tried everything .
There is a pin puller that has been used with some success
Does any one of you have one that I could use
I would sure like to use it.
Could even buy it from you if not to high
List week I talked with a brunch of you guys
And I tried them all my last resort is the puller
I have been soaking for2 weeks with jb 80
Or take the whole week and axel off
I just turned 80 so I count want to get killed doing that
As fluid in tires.
Thanks for all the help and I hope someone has a puller
Jack 1-608-1122

Due to the way the brake bands are made you cannot remove the final drive and housing with the brake bands installed so that is out. Don't know what you have tried so far but over the years I have learned that the pins are always stuck on the end towards the wheel, never seen one stuck on the other end. The first thing I do is knock the pin inward. I know that sounds counter productive but you need to get the pin moving and that's the easiest way. This is no place for either a small hammer or wildly whacking away, all that will do is peen the pin and make matters worse. You need a BIG hammer 4 lb minimum and a flat piece of steel to hold flat over the pin and hit it as hard as you can, a helper and sledge is best. Hit it 2-3 times and if it moves inward (most of the time they will move) reach up in the bottom hole with vise grips clamed as hard as you can squeeze them and see if you can work the pin. If you cannot knock the pin inward with a heavy hammer then your not going to pull it with anything I have seen or read about. If that happens you heat the housing under the outside end of the pin until it will move. Once it starts tomove inward you have several choices. One is to drill a 1/2 hole in flat stock, slip it over the end of the pin and weld it fast. Using it as a handle then try to move the pin. If it does not go you heat the housing under the outside end of the pin until it will move and work the pin out. Second choice is to drill and tap the end of the pin for 3/8 puller rod. Grade 8 ready rod is best, then use a length of pipe and washers to build your puller. The fastest/easiest route and the one I use is to torch out a section of the pin between the bands reaching up through the hole in the bottom. Have water or fire extinguisher handy if the housing is an oily mess. Just cut what ever you can easily cut, then continue knocking the outer section inward cutting sections out as required. (takes less time than it took me to one finger type this reply)Key here is again BIG hammer and once flush you need a punch just under pin size with the end ground flat. Again, if you whack away with a ill fitted punch and small hammer your making your job harder each hit. Once you have the outer section out the inside piece is easily pulled toward the center with pliars or vise grip.

I will second the latter part of Butch's reply where he tells about cutting the pin out a little at a time with a torch. I was taught that by the old AC guys over 40 years ago when I worked for them. We never wasted our time trying another method. I have heard recently of the inner end being stuck after all that. But a little heat got it out.

I totally agree with the cutting out method. You can buy new shoes and pins. My only suggestion is to make sure you have all the mice nest out of the break chamber. It will cut down on setting your tractor on fire. Even though the fire will be temporary, it will stink like crazy. Also when you are cutting out the pin, it's gonna fall out of the tractor in a molten metal blob that will flat out burn you. Use a full face mask and cover your torso with heavy shirt. I'm still not growing chest hair right in one spot from last year. Good luck, LH

I drill a 3/4 inch hole in a flat iron, weld it to the pin. heat of welding helps the pin loosen. Also apply candle wax as it cools. Melts between stuck parts. Hammer on flat iron to rotate/loosen. Pin can be re-used.

You can grind off the case hardened end, drill and tap for 3/8-24 and use a socket head cap screw and a socket or piece of pipe and make a puller. Drill as straight as you can. Use a new tap and do not break it. Use a socket head or grade 8 capscrew for the puller. Grease threads and head of capscrew to reduce friction. I have done a few this way. Drill and tap new pins before installing and put a short capscrew in the threads to protect them. Take your time.

Got access to a welder? When I did the brakes on my D17, I welded grade 8 bolts to the pins and used a piece of pipe over the bolts and pins. Using nuts and a thrust bearing the pins came out quite easily.