1952 Allis-Chalmers B Rebuild/Restore Questions

Hello,

I purchased a (supposedly) 1952 Allis-Chalmers B with a narrow front end (must be from a C from my reading) and I'm looking to first rebuild and get it running and then restore it. I've never owned a tractor before, I didn't even grown up on a farm, but I sure as heck have got the itch to get this beautiful machine running again.

I paid $700 dollars for it (I probably overpaid), it has 2 frozen pistons, and has been apart for about 8 years in a garage, it looks in pretty good shape. It came with a Woods L59 belly mower.

I know I have to clean up the engine, I was thinking about buying an overhaul kit with pistons and sleeves. Here are my questions:

How'd I do?

Where do I start with the engine, do I just buy the overhaul kit (on YT ~ $650) and start digging into it? I don't know much about motors but I'm pretty mechanically inclined and can figure things out. I understand it's a big job, it'll be a learning experience.

I figured I wouldn't worry about getting the pistons unstuck (was left outside and some rain apparently got in there, it doesn't look all rusty but they're stuck) and just pop them out with the sleeves since the overhaul kit comes with the sleeves, can I do this? Should I do this?

He said I should bring the head to have it professionally cleaned, it looks gunked up, not rusty or anything). Do I really need to bring it in? I heard someone online saying to make sure and get it "cooked", what does that mean?

Anything I should look for specifically before or after pulling the sleeves/pistons? What should I take pictures of to help on forum questions?

Any books you recommend?

Best place for parts? (DJs, YT, OK, anywhere else?)

Where can I find a picture of an original 1950s B so that I can see the original color scheme for all parts/body?

Sorry for the book but I figured I'd ask the experts.

this looks like a pretty good tractor to start on, however it is not a B, it is definitely a C. you cannot reasonably make it a B. forget that. a good thing to start with is a manual. if the cylinders are in good shape you may just need a set of rings. you will need to have the head serviced meaning reseat the valves at a machine shop, and of course new gaskets. the original color is Persian orange. it is all the same color except rear rims which are silver. it a simple and rugged tractor. the woods mower is a good combination. it has plenty of power for that mower. good luck with your project.

I was just told it was a B from the person I bought it from, some guys on another forum are saying it may be a C as well (because of the 5 lugs). Is that why you think it's a B?

I'm going to take a bunch of photos this weekend and try to get a look at the serial.

B or C make no difference to me, I just love the way they look.

Thanks for the reply!

Definitely a B. I would start by soaking the stuck pistons with and mix of diesel fuel and automatic
transmission fluid, 50/50. Or a mix of Acetone and transmission fluid.
If they are stuck too had, you may get away with just new rings. The sleeves MUST be smooth inside, with no
gouges. Then deglaze with a deglazer tool. The deglazing must also be done with new sleeves.
Get an AC manual and a book on rebuilding an engine ( or look on line).
A C is a great little tractor with lots of snoot. LOL Bob

It will turn out to be a C. Not many B's would have C fenders.

I hope it was ok posting it on multiple forums, I wasn't sure there would be much response so I posted it multiple places.

A very good idea. I just happen to check in on both. You can get good advise on both.

The rear end is definitely a Model C.....from the bolt style. All Bs have the wishbone wide front, and is a narrower tractor. The serial number will be stamped near the transmission lever, starting with "C". The ignition has been converted to a battery ignition, not a magneto. Generally makes them start better, but does require a good battery to operate. You"re missing the starter?

A good service manual is I&T AC-11, covering the C and other models of that era. Paint code is Persian Orange #1. Head should be magnafluxed for cracks, if none, then valve work can proceed.

Most parts are there from what I've seen (they are in the garage in plastic tubs), I believe it is only missing the air filter cap and exhaust pipe, and part of the battery box, he had it apart for 8 years trying to get the piston unstuck. The parts looked in good condition. He said a carb rebuild and the pistons and it should run like a top.. he also said it was a 52 B though too

I see you're out of MN as well? I'm in St. Paul.

An hr west of 494, Meeker County.

JMS/.MN - Never been out that far west, I bet it's pretty nice out that far though. I'm originally out of Hudson, WI now living in St. Paul but hope to buy a house with some land out in WI in the next couple years.

Here's an update for you guys.

[b:6105593244]Saturday[/b:6105593244]

It looks like it's a C, the serial number is C9291 which from tractordata says it's a 1941 (unless I'm reading it wrong). Easy-off oven cleaner took the paint really well, and quickly!

We split the tractor and removed all the outer stuff from the block, I'll take more pictures of the block and internals tomorrow.

I think we have to remove the crankshaft/camshaft in order to pop the sleeves out, we tried it with a 2x4 and a mini-sledge but it just chewed up the 2x4 since it was off center because of the crankshaft.

I picked up a nice 2000 lb engine stand from harbor freight, I figure buy once, cry once, just in case I work on something bigger in the future. I'm only 34 so I have a few years left in me to get into some stuff.

So the block only has the internals and gears left on it, it's sitting on some 2x4's on the engine stand, I may take the crank/cam out tomorrow or wait until next weekend. We'll see how I feel, I pulled something in my arm and it hurts a bit. All in all a good day!

[b:6105593244]Sunday[/b:6105593244]

Today I tore the engine down and removed the crankshaft so that I could pound out the sleeves. I tried with a 2x4 and it just chewed up the wood, I tried with an oak log as well and it fared a bit better but wouldn't budge with my mini-sledge. I didn't have time to take more pictures of the internals but I will next weekend for sure.

Should I put some acetone/ATF in the bottom of the block so that it can hopefully seep down the sleeve and loosen it up? I'm not sure what else to do. I though about buying a sleeve puller but that wouldn't work because only 1 of the sleeves doesn't have a piston in it. Any other ideas? Should I just be using a pine 2x4 or something else?

It all went fairly well so far, there were only two parts that gave me a bit of trouble:

1. The steering arm/drag link (or whatever it's called, the long bar on the side with the ball joints on them), I couldn't find the name of it or anything in my 2 manuals that said what it was or how to take it apart. When I took off one of the nuts I couldn't figure how it was supposed to come off, I hammered on it a few times and it wouldn't budge, I thought maybe I had to pop the ball joint apart. We ended up putting a propane torch on the part the threaded end goes into and heated it up, then I whacked it (the threaded end) about 10 times really hard and it didn't move, I was getting frustrated and I was thinking that it may not come off that way so I was just messing around and just tapped lightly on it 3 times, not even hard enough to hurt your knuckles if you did it to your hand and it popped right out in front of our eyes! My dad and I looked at each other and started laughing so hard, we couldn't believe that happened.

2. The crankshaft pulley - I took the nut off the set screw and didn't see that it had a flat-head slot in it to unscrew it so it took me a little bit to figure that out, then I read online that there was another set screw behind it so I was digging in there trying to get it (it apparently doesn't have a second one), there is a key back inside there that I thought was the second one.. I was wondering why I couldn't get my screwdriver to bite. I also read online that you should use a puller and a bearing splitter to get the pulley off because they break easily.. out came the propane torch again, a crowbar, and the mini sledge. After it got nice and toasty I put the crowbar on the back inside lip and hammered it a few times, then moved to the other side and did the same thing, eventually it started to move and I kept at it until it popped off. I didn't break it!

And some pictures:

http://imgur.com/a/Qbe6P