Allis WD Questions

I have a 1948 Allis WD with a WD45 engine in it. I have been trying to figure out how the lift works. It has a 3 point conversion on it now, was done years ago by previous owner. Ive been considering going back to the original hitch if I cant get this one to work. What was the original hitch, was it a snap coupler? The current hitch has a bracket welded on in front of the control rod that goes from the hydraulic pump to the actual hitch itself under the tractor. My operators manual doesn't show it, is this bracket supposed to be there, and what would it adjust? Also there is a big flat spring in front of the main hitching point under the tractor. Ive been looking at other WD's and haven't seen another one like it. The 3 point that is on it has the "height adjustment" for the lift arms positioned way back on the lift arms. It looks to me like this would make all the "pull" when pulling an implement go to the rocker shaft instead of the arms to work the draft control for weight transfer. Does it look like I need to move the height adjuster pieces back further on the lift arms towards the tractor and away from the ball on the lift arms? Will this 3 point set up allow any weight transfer? Currently when I try to plow the plow goes down into the ground until it is buried and the tractor will not pull it. That is with a 3 point 2-16 Ford plow without a gauge wheel. A friend said I may need a gauge wheel and never get the lift to work with the 3 point, is he right?

Another question I have is about the hose between the carburetor and the air cleaner, the hose goes up into the air cleaner, is this correct or is it supposed to go over the cleaner assembly and have a clamp on it? Was wandering if I had the wrong carb?
 
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That big flat spring is interesting. I also have never seen one. Although it looks like it was made to fit! Whether you have a snap coupler, or not(and you don't) the pivot and spring mechanism above it is the same. As the load increases, the big coil spring in the housing, around the PTO compresses, and the link you have pictured moves forward, activating the traction booster, provided the pump is set and working correctly. Since it looks like your hitch pulls from the drawbar, the clamp at the bail should be loosened to allow the drawbar to move back and forth freely. If that's all working correctly, you don't need any tail wheel. How that big flat/coil spring, and the three point hitch will affect your draft control, I have no idea, but I think it should still work.

The WD and WD45 air filters are different. It looks like you have a WD45 air filter(larger, and different style pipe) and a WD carb.
 
Thanks for the reply. I had wandered if it was the right carb. it does run good with this carb, would there be any advantage to getting a WD45 carb? If it would give more horsepower, I'd like to get it, but if only one or two horses, then it may not be worth spending the money. However I would like to have the hose from the carb attached tighter to the air cleaner, and the existing one will not go over the air cleaner connection, I'm afraid it will draw dirt and dust into the carb. The hose goes into the air cleaner loosely. Is the WD45 carb bigger diameter where the hose attaches? If so, I probably need to get a different carb.
 
that is a shock spring when pulling a plow or sub soiler if you hit a tree root or rock, helps to prevent breaking or bending some thing
 
a couple pics of my WD with 3 point
if you look close the snap couplers are still there at the top of the ajustable drop bars
they are also longer and mounted further back from the ends
looks like your hose from carb to air cleaner is a rad hose someone had laying around
it will work but you need to find one the goes over the horn on the air breather and clamp it there flex hose will work too if you can't find a correct one
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not sure why this replyed to Bob Bancroft it was meant as a reply for 67Chevrolet
I must have hit a wrong button some how
sorry for confusion I may have created
 
If I remember correctly, the air cleaner pipe and carb. matched. So, you either need a WD45 carb., or a WD air cleaner. I don't know how much difference power would be.
 
Thanks for the pictures, I think I will move my vertical drop bars further back away from the ball end of the arms like yours are. It helps to see someone else's setup to see what works for them. I think that would help the pull of the implement to be directed toward the lift arms also, which may help the draft control to work.
 
I THINK the big spring is to absorb the shock of the old pin hitch plow, pre snap coupler, I've seen them on older WD's without the snap coupler hitch. If you convert it to a tru snap coupler that part gets removed. As I said-I think this is right if it isn't someone please post back.
 
(quoted from post at 02:19:15 08/20/15) Thanks for the pictures, I think I will move my vertical drop bars further back away from the ball end of the arms like yours are. It helps to see someone else's setup to see what works for them. I think that would help the pull of the implement to be directed toward the lift arms also, which may help the draft control to work.

Those lift links should certainly be relocated so they pull more or less "straight up".
Those "beehive" springs show up now and again on the WDs.
They were an option for the plows and are shown in plow parts books rather than tractor parts books.
I went out and looked at both my '52 WD and '55 WD-45 and they both have that bracket with the adjusting bolt.
Never noticed them before and don't know they're for.
 
The lift arms do not have anything to do with draft control. The heavy round spring forward of the drawbar is what senses draft control. Notice the linkage going up to the hyd pump- that is part of the system. It does not come from the lift arms. The heavy spring is factory set and should need no adjustment if you don"t mess with it.
 

I agree.....however the extreme angle on his lift links might transfer some of the pull to the lift arms and rocker shaft and diminish the effect on the traction control system.
Just sayin'....
 

1st Rule on a WD is get rid of that old killer Hitch and replace it with a Snap-Coupler Hitch, along with the proper Snap-Coupler lift arm Latches..

At the VERY LEAST, make SURE the Cotter pins are good STEEL and bent to secure the pin WELL (and check it often)..

Ron..
 
Actually the snap coupler hitch is the real killer hitch because the snap coupler can come loose when plowing and the tongue will jam in the ground and then pivot the plow on the arms bringing the plow over on top of the seat.AC had a warning out to always use a safety chain on the plow tongue if the tractor had a snap coupler.
 


You are Absolutely WRONG about the "Snap-Coupler"...

When the associated Lift Latches are used on the Lift Arms..the plow will calmly release away from the tractor (if the front latch should ever release)..

The old system, with the cross-bolt retaining the plow used Lift arms Set-Screwed to the Lift Arms and could NOT release if the cross bolt fell out..

Ron..
 

The Drawbar will give you weight transfer..and IF the 3-Point arms are attached to it, you MAY get weight transfer..IF the Anti-sway Bars allow enough movement...front-to-back for the Hitch system to sense the Loads..

Mine is much different..

Ron..
 
I had my son rearrange the attachment of the vertical bars to the lift arms, and I think it looks much better now. I will have to wait until it is dryer here to try it out.
I would like to have a snap coupler hitch to put back on it, I will start looking for the hitch, hopefully I can find the parts locally. Then I would have to start the hunt for Allis snap coupler implements, as I don't have any. I used to see them around but now they are getting hard to find, at least around here. All my implements are the standard 3 point hitch, this is why I want to make this set up work. But I will be on the lookout for snap coupler stuff, and buy as I can find them and afford them.
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I've owned at LEAST 50 Allis Chalmers WD and WD45 tractors and so I know them very well
and I have the service memo on the subject somewhere if I can find it but going thru
over 1,000 AC manuals isn't real easy.
 

Simply LOOK at the way they are different and you will readily see that you are Mistaken..

I have Worked the daylights out of them all my life and know when I am correct...(sorry)...

Ron..
 

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