WD does not fire on cylinder 4

I have working on a WD that has set for a few years in a shed, nice and dry. I got it running very easily. I changed the oil, old but all oil, put Marvel Mircale oil in with the regular oil when I put the oil in before starting. Good oil pressure. I ran it some and could see that both end ports on the manifold where leaking and the manifold was not in too good of shape, So I got a new one and put it on, no leaks and it fit great. While I had the old manifold on I noticed that cylinder 4 was not firing, I replace the dist cap,rotor and points, I have good spark to that cylinder when I take the plug out and put it against the block while running. I rebuilt the carb, put all new hoses on and drained all the coolant and that was very clean. I flushed it out and put water in for a few days and ran it while I was waiting for the new manifold. Drained it again, nice and clear water came out. Nothing in the oil, very very clean. But after the new manifold it did not fire on cylinder 4 either. One thing I did notice as soon as I used the new manifold all but the right side discolored some when it was run for a while. That tells me that I have no or very little exhaust on the 4 cylinder. My thoughts are to pull the valve cover and check to see if the valves are working properly. Any other thoughts on what to do?
 
Pull #4 plug out and fire it up. Bet you can stick your finger in the hole due to a valve being stuck open and if so yep will not fire at all.
 
(quoted from post at 11:43:50 07/28/15) Pull the valve cover its most likely a stuck valve but be VERY carefull working the valve loose as those keepers come off easily.

Thanks, that was my thought will do that today, use some spray to try to loosen it up and give it plenty of time to work.
 
A pumper oil can full of ATF works better then any thing else I have ever found and cost half of say what a can of P.B. Blaster cost and works faster an better
 
(quoted from post at 17:26:20 07/28/15) A pumper oil can full of ATF works better then any thing else I have ever found and cost half of say what a can of P.B. Blaster cost and works faster an better[/quot

Thanks,on the way to farm store to get some ATF.
 
I have an old JD pumper oil can I keep full of the stuff and use it on nuts blots. Locked up engine etc etc etc. Also works good when mixed with gas to clean up carbon build up and helps free up sticking valves. Mix with 3-5 gal or gas to one quart of ATF
 
(quoted from post at 17:49:47 07/28/15)
(quoted from post at 17:26:20 07/28/15) A pumper oil can full of ATF works better then any thing else I have ever found and cost half of say what a can of P.B. Blaster cost and works faster an better[/quot

Thanks,on the way to farm store to get some ATF.

I did a compression test, cylinder 1=100,cylinder 2=100,cylinder=90,cylinder 4=0. Took valve cover off the post between cylinder 3 and 4 was broke in half, and the push rod on the exhaust valve on cylinder 4 had slipped off. See picture below, can I just replace the one post that is broken or do the whole set, or just replace the one?

25119.jpg
 
You can do just the one posts if you can find one or some one is likely to have the whole assembly. I may have that on hand but would have to look to be sire. Is that engine true WD engine with the bolt on plate on the one side or maybe a WD45 engine. The WD45 engine does not have the bolt on plate in the side of the engine. I ask since I know I have that asembly for a WD45 engine but not sure I do for the WD/WC engine
 

I have verfied it is a WD as it has serial number WD333389 and that matches the wd serial on the tractor and it has the plate on the right side, so I know it is a 1950 wd tractor and engine per the serial numbers. I can find the whole assembly on ebay or a replacement one for parts missing one post for $12.50. I can buy new support stands on ebay, but I question the quality of the cast iron as I am sure they are made in China or Tiawan. Left me know what you have and what you want for it shipped. I would like to close this issue out fairly soon, thanks
 
My e-mail is open so send me an e-mail and I'll go out and look. I think I know right where I have that assembly laying out in the shop
 
(quoted from post at 20:40:02 07/28/15) My e-mail is open so send me an e-mail and I'll go out and look. I think I know right where I have that assembly laying out in the shop
I had one also,but the posts are too long,they must be 2" total in length.
 
I had one also,but the posts are too long,they must be 2" total in length.[/quote]

By the engine number, I would say yours is a 1952.

Therefore, it has the "tall" head which was introduced in 1951 and continued on with the WD-45.

Tall heads used short rocker pedestals and the earlier short heads used the tall rocker pedestals.

There should be many more short pedestals available out there as there were many late model WDs and WD-45s built.
 
(quoted from post at 14:20:39 07/31/15) I had one also,but the posts are too long,they must be 2" total in length.

By the engine number, I would say yours is a 1952.

Therefore, it has the "tall" head which was introduced in 1951 and continued on with the WD-45.

Tall heads used short rocker pedestals and the earlier short heads used the tall rocker pedestals.

There should be many more short pedestals available out there as there were many late model WDs and WD-45s built.[/quote]

Thanks for the info,I found some short pedestals and will have them Monday,so I should get it going again next week
 

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