wd45 shift tower

jr1983

Member
I have a wd45 with the curved shifter on it. First, second and reverse work fine as long as you know exactly how to put it into gear third isn't there at all. It will go in but jumps back out as soon as you let out on the clutch. If you dont shift it just right it jumps out of any gear, will go into two gears at once or the shifte rd will go in between the forks. You can pick the stick up out of the trans easily. I havr attempted to repair the shifter but there is a big chunck broken out of tbe ball that fits into the tower. I am wondering if this is something I should rebuild or if I should find a new shift tower? A "new" tower on ebay seems to be under $200 with shipping but if it can be done reasonably I would fix my old one. I am not above a lot of welding and grinding if it would save a buck. Anybody been there?
 
If the tower is not damaged, just replace the shifter. You may also have some bent fork issues. The shifter should be held in place by a snap ring. How do you break out a chunk of the ball?
 
I am unsure how you break the ball. It was like that when I got it. A cousin of mine used to run it (I bought it from my uncle) and he has a knack for breaking things no one has ever seen break before. A snap ring won't hold it anymore. Ive been debating on welding it up and grinding it to original spec many a little thicker and see what happens but thought I'd see if anyone else knew more about it than Ido.
 
You potentially have several issues. There's the ball/pivot, and the grooves, on the shifter lever. There's the bottom/business end of the shifter. There's the lugs on the shift rails. The interlock pins, and detent balls/springs. The forks. The ball/socket area, pin holes, and snap ring groove in the tower. And the transmission gears themselves.

I bought a WD45 a few years back which showed little wear. The drawbar looked good. It still had original manifold, etc. But the shift lever was beat. Everything else looked good, except that I had to use oversized pins in the tower. I bought a new shift lever as I didn't want to mess with trying to build up the ball/slot area, and the bottom end of the lever. If I had known the lever was different I might not have ordered it from Agco. It's not tapered like the original, and takes a big hard plastic knob, pressed on, rather than the little rubber knob.
 
I'm glad you told me they were different. I was thinking of ordering a new stick. Guess ill pull the stick out of my wd and swap the and see what happens. I can weld it up if it works. I'm guessing ill have to go deeper.
 

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