Loading up a G engine

I'm thinking about ways to put a load on the engine in my model G so I can make some adjustments while it's up to normal operating temperature and under load. It has no PTO, belt pulley nor hydraulics. Just a hole in the drawbar. I'm thinking of blocking the right rear wheel just off the ground on another tractor that has about 20 hp, using that tractor as a load unit. Of course chocking the other rear wheel and front wheels so the tractor can't roll. Then backing the G up behind the load unit tractor so the two tractors set back-to-back, right tires of the two tractors firmly together. Again of course blocking the other wheels of the G too so it can't roll. Then on the load unit tractor, I'd leave the fuel and ignition shut off, begin with it in neutral, clutch engaged, then shift it into high gear if needed to get enough load. Then power up the G. It would take a little experimentation to determine what gear to use.

Maybe setting the two tractors back-to-back, left tire to right tire, would work better so a come-along could be used between the two tractors to keep the two rear tires in contact. I think the G is so much smaller than the load tractor that this could work.

I think the tire lugs are so much closer together on the G than on the other tractor that the lugs coming into then out of "mesh" wouldn't be a problem. Again, would require experimentation. I may be wrong on that, but seems worth a try. It would give the two differentials a work-out, but I don't plan to run them long hours.

What do you think? Anybody tried this? Other ideas?

What adjustments are you wanting to make? Besides making an adjustment to the gene pool that is.

I'd just hook it to something heavy and drag it around in 1st gear. Have a buddy drive while you walk along side adjusting.
AaronSEIA

Seems too dangerous to walk around in front of a rear wheel with one's eyes and mind on adjustments, even on a little tractor.

Mostly carburetor adjustment. Suggested approach seems less hazardous than trying to walk around in front of a moving rear wheel - even on a little tractor. Besides, I quit adding to the gene pool many, many years ago.

If your talking G Allis Chalmers with the engine behind the rear wheels with original carburetor I do not understand what adjustments you could make under load. The original carburetor only has an idle adjustment with a fixed power jet. The only way to adjust the idle is setting still at (idle). The only power jet adjustments that can be made is to remove the jet and replace with a different size. I have never seen a case where that is necessary. Any adjustments to the governor damper screw can be made while the tractor is setting still also. What am I missing?

Oh, Dick, remember my thread of 6/14/15. You were in on that discussion. Some day I'm really going to get around to doing this I hope. Sure is busy this time of year.

^D maybe you have but I wouldn't want you to miss seeing it grow in the way of Great Great Grands.

I just dropped down and looked. When you cleaned the carburetor did you remove the brass orifices and jets? If not I would do that after boiling the carburetor in soap water. This will loosen the crud that will cause the orifices to not want to turn.



I use a full laundry load of liquid soap in the above pot to boil carburetors in. I remove those parts while still warm. There is an area behind the power jet that leads to the discharge tube that evaporated gas gum collects and can not be cleaned with a wire thru the power jet.

Dick, Thanks for that input too.

Dick, I certainly should have had another coffee this morning before starting this thread. I plumb forgot at the moment that it's a rear engine machine.

I would like a video of your method, hopefully they won’t come off the jacks or you'll be chasing 2 tractors going in circles chained together back to back. Think I would do it at night so the neighbors can't watch

Maybe a extra long V-belt around respective tractors crankshaft pulleys?