WD45 - A Few More Questions

I gather that sooner or later, every WD45‘s engine needs over hauled - part of the deal when owning an old tractor. Question is - would one typically just go with a WD45 kit or upgrade to a D series engine kit, like for a D17? Would a D17 kit be a drop-in and if so, would the driveline and PTO handle the additional power? Don't know that I'd go that route, unless there was a compelling reason for an otherwise working tractor.

I seem to remember reading one time that a hard worked Ford 8N might need an overhaul every few years, a Farmall H or M could go full time for years. Back in the day, how many hours/years could one expect to get out of a WD45's gas engine full time farming on the family farm?

I've read online some warnings with the AC tractors, be it a WD, WD45 or D series tractor that they can and will jump out of gear when going down hill. We have some hills on our place and jumping out of gear hauling a wagon load of hay would not be good. It seems like some of the threads suggest that 3rd gear is the one likely to jump out of gear. What's the skinny on AC tractors (especially the WD45) jumping out of gear? Is it all gears or one particular one? As a back-up, how are the brakes on the WD45 - LOL.

Weights: How is a WD45 typically weighted? Or were they fine without any weights? If weighted, front suitcase weights or front wheel weights - at the rear, I gather fluid was a given and then rear wheel weights. How much weight would be advisable for the WD45 - if any at all?

Anyone ever retrofitted a WD45 with ROPS?

Any info is much appreciated.

Thanks!
Bill

This is based on one persons memory and experience, so take it with a grain of salt!
We had a WD45, from nearly new, until it was traded for a 180, circa 1970. It did everything, and was worked hard.

The 226 engine is capable of a lot more power. The limiting factor was the weak bottom end of the engine. Three main bearings with not much lubrication. I think it was the series III D17 where they switched to a full flow lube system, which was a much needed update.

We never had trouble with the WD45 jumping out of gear. But I suppose time(hours of use) and how it was used (abused) made the big difference there. The same design, carried over into bigger tractors, didn't hold up well. We had a 185 which started popping out of second gear in short order. The brakes were fine. You could skid the tires.

Our tractor had loaded rear tires and one set of weights. I think that was fairly standard, and necessary. We had no need for front weights, but of course that depends on terrain and usage.

Late WD and WD45 models with the curved gearshift handle will tend to jump out of gear over time because they can be scraped into to gear with the tractor moving some.On the other hand with the early WD straight gearshift handle you'll never see one of those that jumps out because the tractor had to be at a dead stop before you could change gears.
I have a WD45 my dad bought in 1957 thats never had even the head off,smokes some but still operates and runs fine.I'd say it has to have at least 15,000 hrs on it.

Most aftermarket engine kits are going to be sold as fitting a WC/WD/WD45/D17. If you get a kit from AGCO you can get one with the pistons you want. If a WD has a Wd45 crank (4.5" stroke vs the 4" of a WD), then I'd put a WD45 kit in it. The crank and rod bearings were different on the WD/WD45 vs the D17, so you'd want to make sure the bearings you got fit the crank. I put a kit from a 175 in my WC, but the AGCO dealer swapped out the bearings so I had the right ones.

There are aftermarket shift levers for the WD45. The problem was the ball on the end of the shifter. It gets worn over time and eventually will not push the gears quite enough for them to be 100% engaged. Good machine shop can weld up the end on them as well.

AS for weight, most have fluid in the rears and really no need for front weight unless you are carrying something real heavy on the rear. Aftermarket makes the original front stack weights that mount on the pedestal in front of the radiator. Think they run around $150 a piece and you can put 3 of them up there.

Never seen a WD with ROPS, but I suppose you could mount something to the axle housing and fender mount tabs.
AaronSEIA

(quoted from post at 18:34:59 05/09/15)



Weights: How is a WD45 typically weighted? Or were they fine without any weights? If weighted, front suitcase weights or front wheel weights - at the rear, I gather fluid was a given and then rear wheel weights. How much weight would be advisable for the WD45 - if any at all?

Anyone ever retrofitted a WD45 with ROPS?

Any info is much appreciated.

Thanks!
Bill

Click to expand...

Typically, tractors used for heavy field work needed to weigh at least 100 lbs per PTO HP. A brand new WD-45 shipped out of the Factory had fluid in the rear tires and weighed around 4500 lbs. If I was going to fabricate a ROPS structure (and expect it to work) I believe it would need to be of a 4-post design. Two posts directly bolted to the rear axle tubes and two more bolted to the side frames alongside the battery box area. The roofline would have to extend behind the rear wheel centers because the seat is that far back. The rear wheels may have to be adjusted a little wider to make room for the ROPS attaching to the rear axle tubes and maybe even eliminate the original fenders. WD-45's with fluid in the rear tires weren't really known for upsetting. Farmall "M" tractors were.

The Wd and WD-45 would take a Lifetime of hard use. with many thousands of hours of use..

Yes, there are some that have reached their limit, but there are many that are still ready to work..
I, myself have seen some that wore worked to death, but outrs were (and are) still healthy and ready..

You just need to "WORK" what you are purchasing and SEE what shape it is in..

Ours still can pull 4x14"..all 4 tires are Loaded and a Railroad Iron rests across the front (about 24"), good tires and maybe a left-side Dual..
An Early D-17 power kit works just fine in a WD-45 (7.4:1 Comp) but will really need 12V for easy starting..
Makes a very Nice running WD-45 indeed..!!

Ron.

Thanks again everyone for the info on this post and the AC tractors in general. Very good info - much appreciated.

Bill

ALWAYS check the webs above the crankshaft (between the sleeves) for any cracks..
They are NOT a death sentence, but will require abundant use of Non-hardening Permatex inside the water jacket around the sleeves..

You can have the block resistence-welded and
Pined" and it will be better than New..
I had both of mine done at "Columbus Col-Weld" (Ohio) and they guaranteed them for life..

Ron.