wd45 brake repair

rod in nebraska · Apr 16, 2015

I was wanting to work on my 45 brakes, reading the it manual and it talks about
removing a lower pin holding the brake shoes on the underside, found the pin, WD the
pin several times but still won't move any way, got any ideas what to do to get this
pin to move, thanks, rod

old · Apr 16, 2015

If your saying you used WD40 on the pin that is part of the problem. WD40 is a moisture dryer not a good lube W stand for water and D displacement and 40 well it took them 40 tries to get it right. Pumper oil can with ATF works real god or PB blaster.

DrAllis · Apr 16, 2015

You are entering into a world of possibly learning new cuss words and much frustration when it comes to removing those pins. First, you need to remove the brake rods by unthreading them and disconnecting the return springs on top under the cover. Loosen up the adjusting nut fully. Now, there was an official tool back in the day to hook onto the end of that pin and pull it out. If the pin is really rusted in place, the tool will pull the head right off of the pin !! Grabbing the pin with a good vise-grips may allow you to turn and wiggle it. Torch heat on the housing underneath the pin is where they stick. Welding a nut to the pin and slide hammering it may work. Cutting the pin in pieces from underneath and driving the outer portion inward also works. In short, you'll have fun. Be sure to clean the holes good and anti-sieze the pin when reassembling.

rod in nebraska · Apr 16, 2015

Sorry about that, I am using pb blaster

JMS/.MN · Apr 16, 2015

I use a strap iron with a 3/4 hole drilled in it. Weld it slightly to the pin, apply torch heat to the casting, apply candle wax as it cools. Wax melts in to loosen. Use the strap iron as a handle to wiggle it loose, and you can hammer on the backside. If you don"t weld too solid you can grind off the weld and re-use the pin. Use Never-Sieze on reassembly.

Meangreen · Apr 16, 2015

If you're going to use heat go to a parts store and get the stuff called "Deep Creep" by the Seafoam company. About twice the price of a can of PB Blaster, but it has the wax in it's mixture so when you heat it will run. Used it very successfully on tearing my allis plow apart.

4wdtom · Apr 17, 2015

The pins are case hardened. If all else fails grind the case off of the head and with a sharp drill drill a hole ( pilot drill and tap drill) and thread 3/8-24 (fine). screw in a grade 8 cap screw with a piece of pipe or a socket that fits over the pin and pull it out. I have not had this method fail yet. It is a @#$%& to drill under there but with the right drill and using short bits it can be done. Try to drill straight. Be careful tapping and use a new sharp tap and a lot of tapping fluid, Do not break the tap. New pins can be made from case hardened pins from Mc Master Carr by grinding a slot on one side for the locking tab. I always drill and tap them before installing them. I also put a bunch of grease and a short 3/8 capscrew in the hole to protect the puller threads for the next time. Always install pins with never seise or grease. Good luck, Tom

wd45 brake repair

rod in nebraska

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old

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DrAllis

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rod in nebraska

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JMS/.MN

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Meangreen

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4wdtom

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