wd45 water in oil

Andy Keil

Member
HI, I just bought a non running WD45. got a good deal on it, but it sat outside for a year. The exhaust had a cap on it, but was only setting in the manifold not threaded in. I drained the oil and got over 4 gallons of oil and water out.

I have got it running and changed oil several times, but can't get the milky stuff out of the oil. The radiator remains full so it's not leaking more.

Any advise? Or should I just run her and burn the water out? thanks everyone
 
Drain the oil and let it sit over night or maybe a day or 2. Leave the oil drain plug up. Have a pan under it to catch what comes out but have it empty when you put it under to be able to watch for antifreeze etc. Letting it sit this way lets more water to drain out due to a longer time of being open
 
Andy, Old has a good idea but in the end you will still have areas of hideout with milky crud. It only takes 1-2% of water to make the oil look like crap. A couple oil changes, then run it hot like you said and it should look better next time........ you changed the filter, right ?
 

IF it turns out to be a cranked web between #1-2 or #3-4 don't get excited, you can remove the Freeze-Plugs, power wash the water jacket out, dry it and pour in a FULL Pint (maybe more) of Non-Hardening Permatex , sealing around every sleeve) and the water will stop and life will be good..
A crack in the web between cylinders at the bottom is not that serious..

Ron..
 
Does it still have anti freeze in it? Could be the sleeve o-rings let go too. I'm a big fan of doing complete rebuilds in situations such as these, but I'm a bit of an odd duck anyway.
AaronSEIA
 
I just took a wd engine apart to rebuild and found a crack between the lower webs like you described. I thought I would have to find a new block, but what you described sounds a whole lot cheaper to do. Is the permatex product you mentioned have a brush in the top? I looked online and that was all I could find that might work like you described. Would you happen to have a part number? Thanks for the advice about this, you probably saved me 400 dollars if this works, and I'm gonna try it.
This engine was getting coolant in the oil after several hours of run time. However we ran it this way for 15 years, we just kept a check on it and changed oil frequently, cheap oil is well, cheap and did fine as long as we kept an eye on it. I was hoping it was just an o-ring, but it is cracked, and I haven't been able to locate another non cracked block. I did find another block, but it was also cracked.
 

Would you believe, the AC Mechanic I knew suggested using the settled Paint from the bottom of Pain Cans..!!!

The ( I think #2 Permatex) Is non-hardening and seals the sleeves/webs just fine.
I use it when installing new sleeves in these AC blocks.
I always thought the cracks happened when the hot piston stopped at the bottom of a cylinder, if you stalled it or ran out of gas..and didnt turn the engine over after it stopped
 

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