My dad bought a model G last weekend at a sale. The owner was not there but the auctioneer said the tractor was driven off the trailer and to the line. That being said, we have never seen the tractor run. After getting it home we can not get it to start. I have tried everything I can think of. Reset timing, changed the plugs, adjusted and checked the carb, checked points, checked valves and still nothing. The inside of the carb is spotless and I can tell the parts are new in it. I'm getting spark to all the cylinders. Can someone explain setting the timing to me just to make sure I am doing it the right way? I removed the intake and the left side seems to be damp with fuel but the right side seems dry. Even tried starting fluid. Nothing helps. Any ideas?
- Thread starter Jbabycsx
- Start date
Mike(NEOhio)
Well-known Member
- Location
- Newbury, Ohio
TDC for #1 (rear) cylinder is when the mark on the crank pulley is centered in the inspection hole in the hood support. Distributor position is with the drain hole in the dust shield pointing down. Rotor should be pointing to the #1 terminal. Rotate the distributor CW until the points are closed, the CCW until they just open. Firing order is 1-3-4-2. Is your fuel supply valve under the tank open?
Chuck H in Wi
Member
Check the on off switch, wire direct to bypass switch. If all else fails put in a new set of Autolite sparkplugs. I rebuilt one engine and had it running and shut down to redo some things and spent three days trying to figure out what was wrong with it. I too had spark to the plugs and they had less than 2 hours on Champions.
Ted in NE-OH
Well-known Member
If the timing was off you probably would get back
firing. If it was driven off the trailer I would look
for something else.
firing. If it was driven off the trailer I would look
for something else.
Ok, I just got back from working on it. I started from scratch and re set the timing. After that it started but only after giving it lots of throttle. It seems really hard to start. I did a compression test on one of the cylinders and it only shows about 27 pounds. Hopefully it was a bad reading. I will go back in the morning and test them all. It's also not showing oil pressure. I swapped the gauge with another and still no pressure. I will look into that as well. At least it started though.
The flat head engines are bad for sticking valves if the tractor has been sitting. If your compression check is correct it is probably the valve. You can can se one valve on each cylinder with the plug removed. You may have to take the side valve cover off the see if one or more valves are not moving.
I checked the valves when I was troubleshooting it on the first go round. They are all working correctly. I did a compression check on it today, cylinders 1 and 4 are just under 30 pounds, cylinders 2 and 3 are completely dead. No compression at all. Looks like a rebuild is called for.
Put a coupla table spoons full of motor oil in each cylinder. If two are still dead it will be a valve problem. If you get compression with oil in the cylinders you might luck out with rings that have lost their tension because of over heating. The pistons come out the bottom regardless what you take apart. All you need to do is remove the pan. You can check ring gap as well as cylinder wear from the bottom.
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