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Want to remove the hand clutch questions

D

Dodgeit

Member
I have a 1949 WD that I would like to remove the hand clutch from. I have the part that supposedly goes in its place, but I am unclear about how to go about removing it. I purchased a supposed service manual, but this procedure doesn't seem to be in there.

Thanks
 
The short version is this:
Block up the front end.
Put a rolling floor jack under the front drawbar support bracket.
Unbolt each siderail from the differential housing.
Unbolt the torque tube from the transmission housing, giving support to the rear with the floor jack.
Roll the rear away from the front far enough to allow the transmission input shaft to withdraw from the engine clutch shaft.

If you are working alone without proper splitting stands, you can accomplish this job more easily & safely by using some 3/4" threaded rod (2-3' lengths) to run into the diff housing and through the holes in the frame rails. Using nuts at the front of the frame rails holes, you can control the withdrawal of the rear end, supported by the rolling jack.

Of course, you have to disconnect [b:0f2bb26d03]Everything[/b:0f2bb26d03] that is connecting the front to the back of the tractor.
 
I&T AC 11 service manual details and illustrates what stu is talking about, but does not specifically detail what you want to do. The hand clutch delete was a factory option. Other way to do it, without splitting, and the inherent risk of falling over without proper stands, is to pull the engine, spread the rails a bit, and remove castings back to the transmission. ie, slide it all forward.
 
I used the threaded rod method, when I split mine, to replace the clutch friction discs. It sure helps to keep things aligned, when it's time to put it back togeather. I used 4 pieces of threaded rod.
 
Thanks for all the replies. My main concern is that once I'm in it what do I have to switch out? I have a coupling like piece that came with the tractor to do this with, but don't know what to do with it. The guy I bought the tractor off of gave me the piece and said that is what it was for.
 
I don't have time to post pictures right now. See if you can send an e-mail address to me.

Anyway, when you back the transmission input shaft out of the engine clutch shaft, you will see that the trans shaft is inserted into the engine shaft by a quill bearing, except it is just a bushing. The end of each shaft is splined externally. The wet clutch works by coupling & decoupling those two splined shafts.

Your coupler is a sleeve splined internally. Remove the wet clutch and its coupling flange and lock both shafts with the sleeve. When you have things all apart it becomes obvious.

If you can visualize stuff from a parts explosion, it eventually becomes obvious as well.
 
12849.jpg
12850.jpg
 
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