D15 Allis won't start

Tractor hasn't been started in a year. Tried
today with no success .I'm getting fire thru coil
and fire thru points but none at spark plugs.
I cleaned the rotor and plug wires, but no luck.
Pecked on the carb and it started a little drip
at bottom, but plugs were not wet. Should I get new plugs, wires, and dist cap?
 
So have you cleaned the points?? Good chance they are not working due to being corroded. If you open the points by hand you should have a spark at them when you do so if not then the points need cleaned and or replaced
 
The condenser is hooked where the points gets its power from the coil. If the condenser is shorted to where it stops spark at the plugs it would stop the points from sparking as well.
 
My guess is a good place to start is cleaning the carburetor because of the dry plugs. Fuel dripping out of the carburetor does not mean fuel is able to get into the engine. Setting will clog a carburetor to where it needs a good cleaning. Carburetor cleaner in a spray can is for cleaning the outside and your hands. Very little good for cleaning a carburetor that has set with gas in it to evaporate.
I boil a carburetor in Soap water before disassembly. That loosens up the threaded jets so they can be removed with properly fitting screwdrivers without destroying them. I then soak in a basket of NAPA or like carburetor cleaner.

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Make sure you put the rotor back in. I was called to help a guy get his far running years ago and when I took the cap off no rotor. I found it under the car where it fell when he was fooling with it.
 
I'm kinda confused. I always thought if points
were firing the condenser & coil was good. Carb
probably does need cleaning, but until I get fire
to plugs, gas means nothing. I probably should do a full tune up. New plug wires, plugs, dist cap
and points as well as condenser. This is the first time in 20 yrs I have had trouble with this tractor starting, even if it sits 6 mos to a yr.
 
If you pull the center wire off the cap do you get a spark from it when you open the points or if you spin the engine over??? If yes then either the rotor or cap is bad. Had a rotor go out on My Oliver 77 one day while running it. Did not look bad but it was so I replace it and went on cutting hay
 
I'm a little confused. If you are getting fire through the points, then you should be getting fire through the rotor and cap through the wires to the plugs. If not to any plug, I would suspect the rotor or possible the electrodes in the cap are severely corroded from setting. You said that the tractor has been setting for a year. I assume that you are not trying to use the gas that has been in the tank for a year, because with the chemicals being put in gasoline for anti-pollution purposes, that gasoline starts going bad after six months. You said that after tapping the carb, some dripped. Thats a problem. Like Dick said, clean the carb. I don't know what the chemical was that I used, but was about a gallon parts cleaning solution that had not been opened yet and had a parts basket that I used on my B's carb about a month ago. Since was fresh, never used, I had far fewer chances of something getting into and clogging the passages, and I opened the idle mixture screw for better cleaning. Gumout used to have carb cleaner in "pour" pints that would be great for your application for no more than you would need in a bowl...a couple of pints, but I'm not sure that you can get it that way anymore. Might only be able to get it in spray can now, which is the same stuff, but spray won't do the job...and I'm not talking about "fuel additive", Gumout or anyone else's. I'm referring to "carb" or "parts" cleaner.

From what you are saying, no spark at the plugs and gas dripping out, you have two separate unrelated problems. The gas is a clear one. So...if you take a plug out, connect it to its wire, and take the cathode (bottom portion) and touch (hold) to ground (engine block or...), and turn it over, you don't see any spark jumping from the anode/electrode to the cathode (ground)? If not, but is good through the points, I would suspect the easy stuff first rotor or electrodes in the cap are dirty (corroded) and not making to the wires after setting a year. On my B, I take the cap and rotor off the mag annually or every other year and dunk them in cleaning solution to clean the contacts and it sure does, let them dry thoroughly and I haven't had a problem yet. Something else thats good if you can find them from typewriter days...ink erasers that come in the shape of pencils. Remember them? Looked like a pencil but instead of lead, had white fine/minor abrasive that didn't tear paper, and had a brush on the other end, and as wears down or goes dull, uses a pencil sharpener to bring to a point again. They are getting hard to find since typewriters went the way of buggy whips and points files, but if you can find them, they also work well to clean the contacts, especially down in the cups of the cap where the plug wires go. A light swirl around in there, and clean. I have about 10 of those things because know they are going away.

Good luck.

Mark
 
Thanks guys for all the input. I bought new points
condenser, cap, and plugs today. I also plan on
replacing the wires. Did not buy a rotor yet as
the old one cleaned up real well. I plan on getting back to it next week. By the way, what
GAP should I use on those points?
I will be sure let you know outcome.
 
I reading and hearing all this talk about the bad fuel we're getting.
I got on a tractor that sat with old gas for over a year nd it started right up and ran fine. Most of my tractor sit for a year since they are used for only 1 implement. They always start. Bob
 
How long ago? I guess it might be where you're located as well. I believe that there are seven different zones, and what they get are not all the same. I know that when I lived in Illinois, a collar county of Chicago, couldn't do that with the gas purchased there. After letting it set for a year, could light it with a lighter, but not run it through a carb or injector. The anti-pollution additives turned it into gummy impotent.

Over a decade ago when I lived in Will County, Illinois (Romeoville) I noticed that my small engines like the Harleys and mowers ran like garbage on the gasoline there and even counties like Grundy, Kankakee, etc. I'd use the mowers about three cuts and then I'd have to clean the carbs. Kept doing that until I had enough. Went to Home Depot in Joliet all set to purchase a new mower, and the fella said he'd sell me one, but would be wasting my money because its the anti-pollution fuel additives. OK, I cleaned the carbs again and then imported several gallons from rural Indiana, and he was right. No more problems. As far as the Harleys went, I was bringing back Premium grade in 5 gallon cans, and long as I ran that, spitting and popping and stuttering stopped.

Mark
 
Update on D15. It's running like a charm.
Replaced plugs, points, condenser, and dist
cap. The old points and cap did not look so
good, but it did the trick. Did not have to go into carb.
Thanks to all who shared their opinion.
 

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