Sickle bar on WD advice

Chris S NY

New User
Looking for help on what type of sickle bar to get. Currently mowing 40 acres (give or take) with a woods brush hog. Tractor has a 3pt hitch and does a good job. Looking to lessen the stress on tractor. I see everything from pull to three point hitch. From pitman rod to twin wheel. What are advantages and disadvantages. It would be a nice addition for pond and side hill mowing. Getting tired of weed wacking.
 
DEFINITELY go with a "pitmanless" model.

Here"s a list of fairly modern, good-working units that should have good parts availability...

New Holland 451

IH 300 or 1300

Deere 350
 
Would you believe I have two(at least) dedicated mowing tractors here? One with a 6 foot rotary cutter, and another with a side mounted sickle bar.

After watching Dad, years ago, fight with a pitman stick, I vowed to never own one. I took an early AC twin wheel pull type(with the little tires) and converted it to three point. It worked great because I could not only raise and lower the whole mower, I had installed a cylinder to raise and lower the bar independently.

My complaint with that type mower is how they hang heavy on the right side, and actually push up on the left lift arm. I solved that by hanging a bunch of suitcase weights on the left side.

Now I have a true side mount, AC 82S, on a D15II. I have the left rear wheel weighted to balance the tractor.

I think any mounted sickle bar mower is handier than a trailer type, and every company has come up with their own version of a "pitmanless" drive.

Best of luck in your search. Maybe, like me, you'll end up buying another tractor too!
 
Hello Bob B.
I see you say you installed a second piston to raise and lower the bar itself. With the WD I only have one set of hydraulics raising the three point hitch. How would I go about making a second set to raise the bar. I like that idea.
 
Down on that hyd pump there should be a capped off plug that you can tap into to get external hyds. My WD45 has a quick coupler on it that taps into the hyds
 
A 80R is about the best mounted AC mower you can get for a WD but the big problem with AC Twin Wheel drive mowers these days is parts for the twin wheel drive.A 350 Deere would be good the 451 NH are good mowers but don't hook up easily on some 3pt hitches.
Personally I like my NH 456 trailer mower better than any sickle bar I've ever used.Also why do you think a Woods bush hog is stressing your WD?
 
Half of the fields I mow are ok but the wet areas have this really thick hay/weed to cut through. I have to take half a brush hog path or the tractor bogs down. I bought the woods after the 30 year old squealer blew its gearbox. Looking to upgrade to a newer higher hp tractor, but with two girls heading to college soon. Not a option. I figure maybe a sickle bar would cut through the weeds a little easier and if not I would have another implement in the barn so when I do get something newer the WD would be retired to sickle mowing pond, ditches and pulling wood wagon.
 
My friend cut many acres of hay with his WD and a john Deere no. 9 mower.

He had some type 3 pt. hitch on the tractor that worked well.
 
Certainly can't blame you for wanting something newer. I gave up on the AC B&C and found a low houred NH TT60A last fall. Fully independent PTO, power steering, 3 point hitch, double acting remote, diff. lock, etc. etc! I have a 7 foot Woods rear mount finish mower for it, but find other uses for it around the farm.

My other dedicated mower tractor(other than the D15II) is a nice original WD45 with a heavy Woods 6' rotary mower. It has enough more power than a WD I think you would like it. If I could find the right tractor to replace it, I would sell it. So if that would fit your program, contact me sometime.
 
If its a wet area a sickle bar will hang up really easily as grass/weeds need to be dry for a sickle bar to work worth a darn.Try raising your cutting height a little it'll make a huge difference in how easy the 'hog' pulls.
 

The FIRST question that comes to mind is ..Has the Hitch been changed over to "Snap-Coupler", complete with lift-arm Latches..???

If not, DO IT..

Ron.
 

Try to adjust your mower so the rear is a good bit higher than the front, so it can throw the trash out readily..makes a huge difference..
Sharp knives help a lot..

Ron.
 
That's funny you say that. Mine is set up with the front higher than the back a little bit. I will try it the other way after replacing front rim. While mowing I noticed front wheel wobble pretty bad. I figured it was the bearings. After closer inspection I noticed the rim had a big crack in it. Go figure rim was replaced about 10 years ago by my father(rim was pretty rotted). The 1950 rim on the other side is still looking pretty good.
 
If you have tall grass and weeds and mow it with the sickle mower, when the grass and weeds grow back, it will be near impossible to mow again because of the left-overs plugging the sickle up.
Sickle mowers work great if you rake and bale what you mow the first time.
 

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