G rear end ring gear fasteners

leon

Well-known Member
I see lots of chatter about the ring gear being riveted to the ring carrier in a G rear end. I see bolts in mine. One of the bolts is broken and I found it in the bottom of the case. I'm guessing probably over tightened when installed by someone at some time. Rather than split the tractor to replace the one missing bolt, there's about a dozen left, I'm thinking it will be OK for parade, grandkid and tractor ride duty with one bolt missing. The bolts look pretty professional - appear to be high grade, right length, with castle nuts and cotter pins. Did production ever use bolts instead of rivets?
 
Wow,that would be a tough call,can you lock the carrier with a bar and get any wiggle out of the ring gear? My big question would be weather the other bolts are loose or show any indication that they have had shear force to them or not.
Does the bolt you found look like it was sheared if, or that it was just over tightened. A future failure here could be a costly one.
 
Any bolts used on a ring gear would have a smooth shank that is a snug fit in the holes. If one was sheared they will all be sheared. Not likely on a G. The axles usually give up first.
 
I now have both axles back on and my memory isn't photographic anymore, but from what I can see through the transmission oil filler hole, the ring gear is sandwiched between the input pinion and the ring gear carrier. Can you confirm this? If so, the 12 bolts/rivets don't see any spiral/bevel thrust load. The tension on the bolts would be just from initial tightening. Oh, I suppose there would be a little fastener tension from the "oil canning" effect of the pinion's side force on the ring gear. So shear is the primary loading on the fasteners, and I think Mike is correct, if one bolt sheared, they would all shear. The broken bolt found in the bottom of the case looks like it failed in tension. I suspect over torquing upon installation.

Thus, unless I'm missing something, It seems to me I'm not taking much risk when re-assembling with one of the 12 fasteners missing. Besides, it looks to me like the only way to replace the bolt would to remove the engine - an exercise I'm not anxious to go through un-necessarily. I guess that would expose the open back end of the trans-axle. Right? Anybody know of a good cross section illustration of the G drivetrain? The manual sure isn't good for that.

I've only had the tractor 18 months and have run it very little and, as mentioned earlier, don't expect it to see anything but parade, grand kid and tractor ride duty. I have no idea as to how long the bolt has been broken/missing. The tractor has experienced at least one broken axle that was welded before I got it. Who knows when, but maybe it was at that time that the bolt broke.
 
I think you'll be OK, Leon. I snapped an axle on mine and when I pulled it out the splines on the inner end had twisted off. I pulled the engine and took the diff out and disassembled it to be sure there were no chips in it. I don't think there is enough torque from that 62 to harm anything. That trans/differential was used on the Bs and Cs.
 
Thanks Mike, That differential sure looks over designed for the power & torque a G could generate and I was wondering if it just might be common with another model with more power, weight and larger rear tires.
 

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