AC model D info needed to get my grader back on the road...

joetx

Member
Just picked up what a believe to be a ’67 D grader. Serial # is 6676. This is a retired utilities grader that was put out to pasture. The motor is tired but was parked running with carburetor problems so the city mechanic took off the carb about two years ago and is now missing. Hopefully he can come up with it in a couple of day???? Anyway, I would like to know if someone can tell me for sure if it’s a ’67 and some engine info such as is it a 226 engine. Can someone tell me if there a tractor I can I can look for that I could get a carb from, if so, what model and year tractor do I need to look for. Any and all info would really be appreciated.... I’m also looking for a service manual for this ’67 model.

Can someone tell me what's going on with the blade?? Seem like there is an attachement welded on at the end of the blade and then for some reason, A portion was cut off with a torch..do you think I can just cut these "added" sections off square?

This grader needs a carburetor, tank cleaning, some hydraulic hose replacing, and one tire to try to get it running again. Once I can get it to run, I would like to restore it so I can put it back to work. Thanks for your help....Joe.



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6676 is a ??? My book by Wendel shows only to 1965, sn 6360 to -----. Nothing beyond. Model D was built 1949-1965. 226 AC engine. WD45 and D17 used 226 engine. Check serial number if first digits are clearly 66, or could be something else. Late year"s production was just over 100 units per year, so unlikely that last year would reach 6676. WD45 used a Marvel-Shebler carb TX464 series. D17 also used a M-S carb.
 

And that's what confuses me. All the info I've found says that the last year was '65 and my serial number doesn't fit, however, here's a picture I took a while back. Not very clear, but it was "66". I won't see the grader until Monday, but I'll pencil in the tag to get a clearer picture. Hope someone can shed a different light on this. Thanks for the info...Joe.

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You'll find its an excellent little grader. In addition to what others
have said, you'll find that old IH truck or school bus rims are an
exact interchangeable replacement, at modest cost. The grader
tires are pricey for 8.25 X 20's so call genesco, get some military
9.5X20 tires with 1/3 tread, any more tread than that, and they will
hit each other, on the drive axles. They also have a problem with
snapping stub axles, so take it easy, if you get stuck, or pushing
too much of a load.
 
I get D-66_6 from the photo. The "_" could be a 1 or a
7. Dont know what type of camra you used, but it dida
good job of showing the SN.

I agree that it should be a D17 type motor, so if you
have a carb to a D 17 or WD45, try that.
 
I've never been near one, so I don't know how it's governed, which I believe is your biggest concern if you have to find a carb. And that's based on the assumption that they used a tractor, or combine engine, and didn't build a version just for this.

The combine engine has a threaded rod w/nut sticking up through the top of the gov. cover. So only operating speed was governed. The "throttle" cable went directly to the lever on the throttle on the carb, and overrode the governor, to pull the engine speed down to an idle.

The "throttle" lever on the tractor, as with most, is actually a "governor control". It is a rod that goes up along the side of the engine to the governor area. Then the governor directly controls the carb. In other words, you can have an infinite number of governed speeds, between idle and wide open.

The lever on the back side of the actual throttle lever (on the carb.) is different between the two types.

All that to say I'm guessing you have a later D17, or Gleaner E engine.
 

[b:d50c379edd]Kind of thought that might be the reason for the cut... Need to bring it into my shop Monday and check it out. I suppose the blade should be 10', so If I have 10', I'll just cut it square. I'm afraid that this extra extension is going to give me a problem loading it onto my 20' gooseneck.

I had a '40's manual D a few years back and I could position the blade all the way between the tires and I could load it onto my trailer. I don't know if the hydraulic blade will get all the way between the tires as my old D grader did.

I talked to my local tire dealer and he says he can get me an 8.25 x 20-14 ply, maintianer tire with the right tread for $178. I thought that was very cheap as I've seen on different posts on other forum where people have paid $400 per tire.

Anyone know what year model D17, or Gleaner E engine to look for when looking for a carb....Thanks for all the info...Joe. [/b:d50c379edd]
 
So far as I know, the Gleaner E engines were all basically the same.

I would say mid 60's on the D17. I think that would be series III or IV. Probably a MS carb. with cable choke control. Earlier D17's might have a Zenith carb, and the choke was controlled with a rod.
 
(quoted from post at 16:00:27 07/04/14) So far as I know, the Gleaner E engines were all basically the same.

I would say mid 60's on the D17. I think that would be series III or IV. Probably a MS carb. with cable choke control. Earlier D17's might have a Zenith carb, and the choke was controlled with a rod.

Thanks, I'll know more about it Monday when I bring it in...Joe
 
1967 is the correct year for that serial number. The engine will be the G226 engine used in the popular D17 farm tractor so the a carb replacement will not be a problem. I used 8.25 x 20 truck tires on my grader but proper grader tires probably look better. All four rear tires must match to prevent tire scrubbing as there is no rear differential and all wheels are locked together. The rims are truck rims if any of yours have rusted out. When I picked up my grader, three wheels were loaded with calcium and one wheel was rusted from leaking calcium. I elected not to load my tires as I would rather have some wheel slippage rather than break an axle. I have a parts book for my grader which is a 59 model with the round frame but many parts are still the same.
 
what's the name and address of your tire dealer? I think I paid $600
plus freight for the militaries with 1/3 tread!
 
You will definitely want the Marvel carb over the Zenith. TSX-464, TSX-773, TSX-871 from the WD45 thru all the D17"s will work fine. You usually find several on eBay most of the time. They have a load adjustment screw to fine tune more or less fuel based on what compression that engine is, etc. If you look on the engine block near the carb you should find an engine serial number. Report back with that and we can tell you what version it is, assuming it"s original inside...if it"s been overhauled it could be anything in terms of pistons & compression ratio. Mike
 
[b:028dfe9a94]Well, finally got my grader home yesterday. We went ahead and aired up the tires, chained up the blade and towed it home....My '27 T had no problem towing it.

My engine # is 17-70828-M...the M is not very clear, but I believe it's an "M". Allis Chalmers D Serial # 6616. Need info on what carb number to order and maybe some direction on who to order it from. I don't have a core as the mechanic couldn't come up with it. I've seen prices on ebay from $147 up to $250-300. Maybe you can suggest a more reliable source. All help is really appreaciated. Also, really anxious to get it running.....thanks, Joe.[/b:028dfe9a94]






 
The "M" code means it was originally built as a 7.25:1 compression engine assuming it's original inside. It's also a newer G226 engine with center thrust bearing and bigger journals vs. the W226 engine from the WD45. Piston's are 4" with a 4.5" stroke but if rebuilt it could have 4" or 4.125" pistons and a compression anywhere from about 6.5:1 to 8.25:1 depending on what was used. Again, any of the carbs I mentioned will work. You could also place a "wanted" ad here on YT looking for a carb - either good used or core to be rebuilt. And I will 2nd the recommendation to Steve @ B&B to rebuild one - had him do one for my D17. Mike
 

[b:6d56653b3c]Thanks for the info Mike....Let me start here asking for a good Marvel carb TSX-464, TSX-773, TSX-871, If anyone has one they want to part with. Will also post a want ad. Thanks, Joe.[/b:6d56653b3c]
 
I think preferred tires would be 7.50-20.

8.25-20 will work as long as they are matched for rear, but it is already geared fairly fast and bigger tires will make this worse.

9.00-20 can be used, but worse still. But 9.00-20 Military are probably easiest / cheapest to find.

If you can find 8.25-20 Heavy Duty Industrials (not 4 ply Ag tires) for $178, I"d go for it. Maybe keep the best 2 originals for use on front.
 
[b:7809405e5c]Got my carb yesterday all pretty and looking good. Pushed the grader into one of my stalls where I can work on it out of the sun....been over 100 degrees down here.

Have very old gas in the tank and I can see a lot of rust on the walls. Will need to clean it out, any suggestions?

Going to try to start it Monday with a clean auxillary tank until I can get this one clean. I think my grader already looks better in at my shop than it did abandoned out in the city yard!!![/b:7809405e5c]

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[b:6da30b2360]Bad news!!! Spent some time making new carb linkage to make my new carb work, mounted auxilary gas tank, put in a new ignition switch, and a battery....Hit the start button and nothing. The engine is stuck...frozen. Pulled the plugs and the two center clyinders were full of rust and water etc..Plugs were fouled up terrible. Anyway, blew out the water and poured in some Marvel oil and transmission fluid and will let it set a few days. Motor won't turn at all. Even if it does eventually turn, I was told by the PO that it used a lot of oil and smoked, so at this point I need to rebuild it find a good used engine. Anyone got one for sale??? Thanks, Joe.[/b:6da30b2360]







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[b:072f28d3d1]Hey Don, Found a series I D17 and is being shipped down in a few days. Bought this engine off Rick Corder on the AC forum and since he rebuilds clutches I'm getting a clutch kit from him to rebuild my clutch while the engine is out. However, there may be two types of clutches used...Most of the clutch discs will have the woven type material however, some will use 4 pad ceramic (metallic buttons)??? so I need to pull the engine before he sends it to me so I can order the correct disk...

Need some help on how to pull the engine with the flywheel/clutch assy. Don't have any problems in pulling the engine, except that the info I got doesn't show me how to remove the clutch linkage. I've never seen the inside of the bell housing so I'm at a loss in what needs to come off. Maybe you can send me a copy of parts manual exploded view which would show me what needs to be done. Sure would appreciate it...if you can,email it to me at: [email protected] Thanks, Joe.[/b:072f28d3d1]
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[b:098990db79]Hello, I just received the used D17 motor I bought and would like some help with some ID info... the motor # is: 17-53738-M I'm unsure about the "M" as I can't make it out clearly. I was told it was a 1st series. Anyone have some info as to the year? Another thing, most of it is painted orange, but I also see some yellow , like it was yellow and some time in it's life it got painted orange. Should it be yellow or orange according to the year model? Thanks, Joe.[/b:098990db79]
 
[b:a3ed5c31fd]Been locating needed stuff to try to get the old grader running. So far, I got a rebuilt carb, used D17 engine both from Missouri, 4 like new heavy mud grip tires and wheels from Kentucky...these tires and wheels came off a '69 international loadstar truck and the wheels are identical to the AC wheels and will bolt on without any problems it seems. They are pretty close in size to the original tires. [/b:a3ed5c31fd]

[b:a3ed5c31fd]I had found some new tires locally for $178. each and were supposed to be grader tires, the were not, so I decided to go with these used, but in great shape tires. Price plus shipping came out to $125. each and they were mounted, holding air, almost new and included the wheels....

I have the grader all stripped down and ready to sandblast and paint hopefully Monday if the weather clears up. I decided to go with Caterpillar yellow. Paint instructions says to apply direct to bare metal without primer.....Any one have some experience with this paint??? After which, I will start the engine installation and replace the hoses. Bought a new correct clutch kit and had the flywheel cut down. Fingers crossed that all works out.....Joe.[/b:a3ed5c31fd]









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