How do you identify a wd 45, d 17, or gleaner engine.

Does the serial number tell this? I am trying to find out how to tell what is in a tractor. Any advantages to the gleaner engine over the d 17? I know the wd 45 was the lower horsepower out of these.
 
On the left side of the block just behind the carburator air hose is the serial number of the engine, will begin with WD45 ########## or D17 ########, not sure on the combine engine, but the block had a place to bolt a fuel pump on. that number will also tell you about what year it is.
 
It depends.
There used to be (haven't seen him in a while) a fellow on here, "skyhighballoon" I think, who had much detailed information on these engines.
The WD45 was a slow, low compression engine. Over time with the D17 they upped compression and speed several times. A different cylinder head was added(the one with long reach spark plugs). The real weakness of that engine- the partial flow lube system, was updated to a higher pressure, full flow system.
The last combine to use that basic engine was the EIII. I think the last tractor was the 175.
 
Hi Bob! I'm still around.

Info for GAS engines (not LP, etc.):

WD45's had 6.5:1 compression ratio engines and as said had a 45-xxxxxx serial number. Oil filter was a bypass system. Rated engine speed was 1400 rpms.

All D17's had 7.25:1 compression engines and serial numbers 17-xxxxx and a -M suffix code. Early Gleaner E engines had the same 7.25:1 CR and the -M suffix. Tractor engines were rated for 1650 rpms and combines for 1600. Early D17 engines were bypass oil filter. Full flow oil system came on at tractor SN 24001 for the D17's and this was before Gleaner E combines were made so all Gleaner engines had full flow oil systems. Also the D17 crank was different with a center thrust bearing and larger mains if I remember right. I'm also told by an expert on another forum that D17 Series IV tractor engines had nitride treated cranks (harder wear surfaces). Not sure if that was done on subsequent tractors like the 170 or 175. First time you turned the crank though it'd be gone.

Later years Gleaner E, EIII (1968 only) combines and 170 tractors had 8:1 CR engines and had a -Z suffix code in the serial number. Rated engine speed for the tractor was upped to 1800 rpms.

175 gas tractors had a 8.2:1CR engine and a -V suffix code. Same 1800 rpms. 175 gas tractors got a larger carb intake.

Also note as mentioned all engines from the Gleaner E/EIII combines would have a mounting boss for a mechanical fuel pump that would have to be plated off for a tractor application.

Finally note that the -M, -Z, -V suffix codes would only have meaning if the engine had not been rebuilt. If rebuilt it could have ANYTHING inside it. 4 1/8 overbore kits were very popular for overhauls but most kits sold are actually only 6.5:1 CR kits unless you bought an Allis/AGCO 4" engine kit with the correct CR. There are SOME overbore kits that are higher CR (like 8:1) but you have to be sure what you got by measuring piston height from the wrist pin to be sure.

Mike
 
Yes, the Gleaner E/EIII 226 engines had the same internals to the D17 226 tractor engines except for the different pistons that determined the different compression ratios. Combine manuals use tractor manual pages when it came to the engine. I don't know if that purported nitride treated crank from the Series IV D17 (SN 75001 and up starting in late 1964) was done for 170/175 or Later E/ EIII combine engines....

The Gleaner block was different as stated with the mechanical fuel pump mounting location.

Also, the Gleaner combine engines had basically single speed governors for combine use (rated speed & idle, nothing in between like the tractors). So if you get a combine engine to use in a tractor, you'll need a tractor governor for a tractor application.

Mike
 
Where to go for piston to dome height and cc of combustion chamber on the 201g and 226g Allis engines? Is compression ratio on the outside of the block?

Did Allis play around with port size in the head or intake manifold runners? Casting numbers of same?

What is the procedure the convert an older block to full flow oil filtering?

Has anyone stroked these engines? How much?

Thanks in advance for your assistance.
 
(quoted from post at 00:38:00 10/11/13) How do you visually tell the difference between the oiling systems?

I don't have a picture of the bypass system but here is one (sorry it's a poor pic) from a full flow system. You can see TWO lines coming in/out of the filter base back to the block near the dipstick. The filter is a regular spin on (PH8A, FL1A, etc). A bypass will have just thinner line(s) if I remember right and there will be a vertical tube that goes in the filter from the filter base that you will see when you take the filter off. The bypass is in the block on it and in the full-flow the bypass valve is part of the oil pump.

d05478ee-1418-4389-87c5-470e26b03e0a.jpg


You can convert a bypass to a full flow by drilling tapping the block for these lines but I'm not an expert at that and you'll need the full flow filter base and the oil pump with the built in bypass. You might also have to change the gear either on the end of the oil pump shaft to match your cam or replace the cam if upgrading an older block so it will mesh with the newer oil pump.

Regarding manifolds they were very similar and will interchange between blocks. WD45 and earlier D17's had different exhaust holes to mount round mufflers. Series III & IV D17/170/175 were threaded to mount a short piece of pipe to clamp on an oval muffler. The 175's had a slightly larger carb opening.

Somewhere on another forum someone had a post on the piston height measurements for the various CR's.

All these head are FLAT heads with no CC. The pistons are Power Crater design if original Allis pistons (or some aftermarket like M&W??) but most newer kits are dished and not "cratered" so the pistons make up the CC.

Questions on stroking & so forth need to go to an Allis pulling forum which there is somewhere else. I am not a puller, just a part-time farmer and long time Allis fan.

Mike
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top