Ac 7000 engin oil to high on stick

Gordie

New User
This message is a reply to an archived post by LimbShed on September 13, 2011 at 10:42:58.
The original subject was "Ac 7000 engin oil to high on stick".

Still chasing around this problem of fluid entering oil pan. I"ve replaced fuel pump, replaced hydraulic pump. convinced that its fuel entering the engine oil. The old hydraulic bump was cracked inside the main body so thought problem was found. Not! The paper towel trick in the oil shows no fuel die, but thin liquid climbs up paper towel way past oil on towel. Is there anywhere else fuel can enter engine block besides injection pump? There is no mechanical fuel pump that mounts to the block. Just about had it with this tractor.
 
If it has a Rooso Master injection pump a common problem with them is a drive shaft seal in the injection pump and that will in time lock up the engine. BTDT and found that to be a problem on an XT190 I had few years back
 
I've replaced the drive shaft seal on the old pump with no improvement. I took pump in to fuel pump shop and they tore it down and found no problem with it. It was reaching its limit of use so I exchanged it for a new remanufactured one. Still getting fuel in oil. It cant be hytrans oil because not losing oil in power shift- hydraulic system oil level sight glasses. I have to be overlooking something! been dealing with this for a couple years. Having to change the oil after every couple hours of use gets expensive.
 
Real easy to damage the seal when putting the pump back on guess how I how. Took me 3 tries to get the one back on the XT190 I had and that was with the special tool made for doing that
 

Figured that was not a possible cause because the pump shop instaled the drive shaft seals. All I had to do was bolt it back in. I know they can be tricky because just put new pump on my jd 2510 and had to install seals and shaft on that one.
 
Allis 7000 models had the DM model Roosa pump, much heavier than the DB that 190, 200 models had. Totally different drive shaft and seal setup. Not common, but have the injectors been checked for opening pressure and spray pattern? Had a V-10 Deutz that would get fuel in oil over time, new nozzle tips fixed it.
 
The problem is that there are parts if the shaft that have sharp parts that in turn damage the seal when you install the pump on the shaft.
 

I have not pulled the injectors. I just drained out 1 1/2 gallons of fuel- oil to get level back down to full mark on dip stick after about 2 or 3 hours of use baleing round bales. Would injectors dump that much that fast?
 
Do a burn test on the dipstick....if you get a crackling sound, it is water or anti-freeze in the oil. If you get black tracers or faster burning, it is fuel in the oil. A slow, even flame means you have only oil in the crankcase. You obviously have increased "oil" level.

My issue with gaining fluid on the 4450 MFWD was a bad injector pump, losing fuel into the crankcase, in as little as 3-4 hours, it was way over full. Sample sent to JD was "do not run this tractor"! Rebuilt the pump over a decade ago and it"s been fine since. Rated 145 hp, pump set at 190, no problems, and it has almost 9000 hrs on it.

Issue on the 3020 with Roosa-Master pump, in the 90s, was that notorious ring that deteriorates and plugs the lines, rebuilt and works fine ever since. Yes, there are multiple reasons why you get fuel passing into the crankcase.
 
I would still pull the injectors and check spray pattern and opening pressure. Have seldom seen a Roosa DM pump seal failure as they are much heavier than DB or DC shaft/seal design. Also how many hours on engine, is blowby excessive? May want to do a compression test, if low it will not burn the fuel as it should. Had a JD 4010 once with a dead miss, high blowby. Owner didn't worry about the miss, but did get fuel in the oil bad. Was corrected only after an engine overhaul.
 
I bought this tractor a couple years ago from a dealers lot about 100 miles from home. found it on tractor house. It was about 20 degrees outside when I test drove it. It fired right up and ran real well. Tractor seamed very nice for the year with moderate hours (5400 hrs.). Paid dealer, and had them bring it home for me. Tractor runs very nice with no smoke and shifts out very nice. put new fuel pump in it and also new hydraulic pump in case it was hytrans oil getting into engine oil. Both pumps run off timing gears. A lot of tractor to just have sitting around and not being able to use. Guess I need to bite the bullet and take it in and have a proper diagnosis performed. Thought I could handle this one but guess not. I thank everyone for there input in on this. Its frustrating. I'm Shure once this gets sorted out Ill like the tractor, but for now, it makes my head hurt!
 
I did a burn test of the oil I took out of tractor and it flames up and burns on its own on a screw driver. So looks like fuel and not hytrans oil. The injection pump is a Stanadyne.
 
RoosaMaster pump is Stanadyne now. There is a small chance on the DM model pump that the shaft seals are leaking on the OD if the housing bore had burrs, tearing the rubber case seal when pressed in place. Pump may need air pressure checked with drive end up, with bearing area filled with solvent. Any air bubbles at all getting through means seal damage. Pump must have head removed to replace the rear seal if leaking.
 
Thanks, Ill take pump back off and take it in to Diesel Equipment and have them look it over before I take tractor to dealer.
 
Called the diesel shop and they said they would do the test and make any repairs needed. Wont be today, I'm in the middle of 4th cutting hay this week. But that's where we'll start. Ill keep you posted of the outcome.
 
The injection pump repair shop just informed me that the pump is good. Must be I have a problem within the engine even though it seems to rum fine with no smoke.
 
Problem solved!! I removed injectors to have them tested. They were all good. Did compression test, found good compression on all but #1. #1 piston compression would start at about 200 pounds and decrease with every stroke. Also realized that piston was extracting air twice, to every one of the other pistons. That alone told me something was wrong with the valves. Removed valve cover to find #1 had a broken push rod and the other was off its rocker. Fuel was being injected and the compression of piston was blowing it down into crank case. There was no evidence of blow by because that piston was not firing. I replaced the push rods with new ones and put tractor back together. All is good with the world. Simple fix! Just wish Id of took the rocker cover off along time ago. Thank you to everyone who has offered advice to this issue!!!
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top