penetrating oil

Everyone has their favorite, but I would like to get some suggestions of penetrating oil and solvents to use to free up rusty bolts on WD, WD-45 and a few green ones that I won"t mention here.
Thanks!!
 
Kroil! And it smells just like the oil-based fly spray we used to use in the dairy barn when I was a kid. It's good for cleaning guns too. Usually it can be found at gun shows or bought over the internet. Not many retail places carry it. The aerosol cans are handy, but is in other containers too.
 
Have used Kroil for many yrs. Mite be a little higher $$ than others.But it has never failed to get things loosened up for me. clint
 
this list has been around for a while
I have used the mixture with some success.

Machinist's Workshop Mag (tm)recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. the magazine reports they tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants
with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from
a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil .......... Average load*
None ........................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix...............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better
than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use
it with equally good results.

Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for
about 20% of the price.
 
I am now taking apart dads 1955 WD45, using PB Blaster, letting everything soak over night and respraying just before I remove the bolts. I am taking out bolts that haven't been removed since it was new. I havn't yet twisted 1 off or stripped the threads. I couldn't read the brass plate on the carb, sprayed it and the next morning the crud wiped off, plate is now readable. I'll have to remove the right side frame rail sat afternoon, must put new seals and bearings in the steering box so will put to the test again.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top