Setting WD hydraulics to "drawbar control" for plo

I had problems trying to plow yesterday, and I found my hydraulics were set to hold position instead of drawbar control. So I turned out screw A (does it screw out all the way? I didn't want to risk it falling out if I overdid it) a good ways, and then screwed B in so that those two plates could move freely past each other.



However, I don't... Get how it works? Like, you put the plow in the ground, and it says to raise the lever to remove slack. However, you wind up having to move the lever up past 1/2 way and then you notice the plow move. But then the plow was winding up jumping out of the ground when I'd try to plow with it! I assumed that with this mode engaged that whatever quadrant you set the hydraulic lever to was how much the rams extended to transfer the plow weight. However I move the lever and the first 1/2 of the quadrant I can move it and get no movement from the lift arms at all.

Can anybody explain it better to me?

I'm sure part of your challenge is working with 6 plus decades of worn linkage. Everything depends on everything else!
There is a big coil spring down underneath (it actually surrounds the PTO shaft when the shaft is in place). There are removable shims on both sides, under a clip/bolt, if I remember correctly, which are removable to compensate for the aging, weakening spring. Everything you pull from the drawbar is pulling on this load spring. As draft increases, the spring compresses, and the arm going up to the hydraulic pump moves. You loosened screw A to allow that arm to move the lever on the side of the control housing.
(Sorry, I can't remember if it screws all the way out. I think the spring is supposed to keep tension on it so it doesn't work out)
And of course there are the traction/draft/soil conditions. If you lack enough traction(ballast/tires/too wet) you'll never get it right. The plow needs to want to bury itself, so the whole above described mechanism can go to work.
IF all of that is in proper order, then you should be able to find a spot on the quadrant where the lever basically sets the plow depth, and the system automatically maintains an equilibrium between depth/draft/traction.
Finding that spot is a matter of trial and error. There is no direct correlation between the marks and cylinder position. They are just there as a guide.
It has been decades since I plowed with one of these. We would drop the lever all the way, then as the tractor/plow progressed and the plow sucked in, move the lever up accordingly to set depth/traction control. But then that was a WD45 not over 10 years old, in excellent condition, loaded tires, one set of weights, and a three bottom plow.
If you stop in the furrow with any properly adjusted draft control system, you should be able to see the plow sag, then pick up as you start forward again.
Hope this makes sense.

Just went out and looked at it all again... It looks like right next to the "A" screw there runs a giant slotted piece of metal that goes down underneath the tractor to the snap coupler bell housing and PTO shaft area. This must be where it figures out how much tension is on it and whether it needs to move up or down? And that the other end of this must be attached to aforementioned big spring?

I just need to wait for the ground to dry out some more as well. It was starting to look dry, but you'd poke it with your finger and you'd feel nothing but cold, damp moisture. I wish I had a bigger field to play in as I think I'm making a mess of our garden plot...

You should have the operator manual, or at least the transfer (decal) that goes on the right side of the battery box. Shows all hyd settings. For Drawbar control (weight transfer) you screw A out of body. Screw B into body, separating plates. Screw D out as far as possible. (D is on the front center of the pump, NOT screw C, which is the screw on top of the valve assembly which contains the 3 hyd ports. Your and Bob"s assessment of how the system works is correct. I would NOT mess with the shims on the main spring- that is factory set and should need no adjustment unless it has been disassembled. KISS formula......simple adjustments first.

For HOLD position you want A into body, B out of body, locking plates together. D out as far as possible. Delayed lift is same as hold position, PLUS Screw C in, for delayed lift of rear cultivator gang.

Yes, I have an operators manual for the tractor, and a second one for the 52/53 pick-up plow. The decal on the battery box is long since gone. I see that screw C is the one up top and that you have to go forward and down more to find screw D (fortunately the manual has pretty good depictions of this).

The downside of the WD is not having a traction boost indicator. Should I notice any movement of that slotted "lever" down by screw A when I have my hydraulic lever set right? I think I was setting it too high and causing it to lift out.

Agreed on the setting too high. Get over half way up and you"re in the lift range. I doubt you"d see any movement of the slotted lever while bouncing down the field. Travel is limited.

(quoted from post at 21:01:17 04/15/13) Agreed on the setting too high. Get over half way up and you"re in the lift range. I doubt you"d see any movement of the slotted lever while bouncing down the field. Travel is limited.

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Yeah, I was definitely moving past 1/2 way up. Once it dries out again (man did it pour rain here today) I will give her another try with the lever nearer to the 1/2 way mark.

Generally, you will need the lever all the way Down with New plow Shares and as they wear, you may need to use more "Traction Boost"..
You will get the feel for the weight transfer..
Raise the lever a small amount and wheel slippage will diminish, raise it too far and either the front will lift or the plow come out of the ground..

Ron..