sleevepuller

2X4's of oak, and all thread will work on AC sleeves, most of the time, you only have to pull it up about an inch, and it gets looser.
 
Most wet sleeve engine you do not need a true sleeve puller to pop them out. Me i use a piece or oak and a hammer and so far have not ever had much if any problem
 
I use a piece of 1" thick steel about 8 inches long and 5 inches wide and a Big Big hammer, something around 8lbs should work. The sleeves pop right out after 3 or 4 hits with the hammer on the steel. I place the end of the bar on the bottom of the sleeve vertically and pound downward from the bottom of the block while block is on an engine stand.

Leonard
 
Early 50s, Dad was replacing sleeves in the '39 WC. Put the Model T jack under the sleeve, raised the tractor off the ground a few inches, and whacked the frame with the 16 pound maul. Popped them out very nicely!
 
JMS, have you ever done a power pack change on a Detroit Diesel? It is the easiest of them all. Lower the piston to bottom dead center, insert a piece of steel stock across the piston and into each side og the scavanger ports and jack the engine over to top dead center. Easiest sleeves I've ever pulled. Kent Moore makes pullers for most engines, but the wood, or a babbit punch is all I have used, or seen anyone else use. Even the government with all the stuff they'll buy does it with a babbit rod.
 
I have a "Snap-On" set, with a number of disks
to fit many bores. It cost about $275 in the
early 1970's, so probably would cost "an arm
and a leg" today, but it's paid for itself many
times over.
 

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