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185 lift arm cylinder

S

sweany4

New User
Trying to remove the 3 point RH lift cylinder and having trouble getting the forward pin out of the RH lift cylinder, is there a trick to it? Appears to be frozen tight, is there a snap ring on this one like the rear pin? thanks
 
If my memory is working, there was a large spring pin up through a slot in the casting, through a hole in the pin.
Yes, they were/are apt to be rusted in.
 
(quoted from post at 19:07:29 11/18/12) That helps Bob, I"ll take a look tomorrow for the pin.

Gary
Click to expand...
Yes there is a spring pin in there, but chances are the pin is rusted in on that side....no oil leaks to keep it loose like the other side. The worst one I have done had the spring pin break off, then you have to drive the remainder out with a punch after rotating the cylinder pin so the hole faces the slot on the bottom of the bracket. Might have to remove some hyd. line clamps and move the hyd. lines out of the way. If the cyl pin is frozen, drive a chisel in behind from the front and use a socket that fits over the pin to drive the cylinder in, remove chisel and drive pin in, repeat as necesary until the pin starts to move easily, may have to use heat. Once the pin is free, a set of visegrips can usually twist it out. Good Luck!
 
Oops, I see you were on the RH side, that shouldn't be as bad as the LH side....under the oil leaks and no hydraulic lines underneath....
 
Thanks Eldon, appreciate yours and Bob's advice.
Turns out that the spring pin was sheared off long
time ago and the main pin had moved so that I could
not see the spring pin hole and the main pin was
rusted hard in there. Here's a picture of the final
mess after I had to apply heat. Brake cleaner also
worked wonders to flush the pin out while moving it
back and forth in the hole. (brake cleaner and heat
not at the same time of course).
a89767.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 04:36:02 11/20/12) Thanks Eldon, appreciate yours and Bob's advice.
Turns out that the spring pin was sheared off long
time ago and the main pin had moved so that I could
not see the spring pin hole and the main pin was
rusted hard in there. Here's a picture of the final
mess after I had to apply heat. Brake cleaner also
worked wonders to flush the pin out while moving it
back and forth in the hole. (brake cleaner and heat
not at the same time of course).
a89767.jpg
Click to expand...
know they can be fun....I did the brakes on 4 of these tractors last spring, most pins were rusted tight, but never had one that I didn't eventually get out. On the worst one the spring pin was broken off, pin was rusted at an angle that I couldn't get to from underneath, and the cylinder wouldn't drop down enough to clear the final drive flange. I wound up using a hydraulic jack to force the final drive out. The good news is I never broke any ears off of any cylinders!
 
On my 175 it helped to disconnect the rear first and drop it down a few inches so the pin was clip was easier to fish out
 
Are you trying to remove the whole cyl assembly? I repaced the seals in my 175 without removing the barrel. If you want to replace seals you can remove the cyl from the barrel by using a screw driver to remove the "C" clip on the front of cyl. While this isn"t easy it is easier than removeing the entire cyl assy.
 
Can"t do that on the 185, there is no c-clip in front, the cyl is held in by a ring that is only accessible from the oil hose connection - which is on top. I think this may be only on the big bore cylinder"s ??? Anyway, it"s off, apart and waiting for the seal kit to arrive. Appreciate the replies and help from everyone. Gary
 
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