D-17 Not running well

My D-17 started to run rough this fall I have rebuilt the carb. with no improvments , It runs good at an idle but when under any loas I allmost have to run it with full choke. Not saying I didnt mess up on the carb, but this is same prob I had befor I re-did the carb. What is a good starting point for the carb air and fuel jets? Im gonna get new plugs for it, just because, but it seems more of a fuel issue then electrical Thanks..
 
Any time you do carb. work, it's a good idea, and pretty straight forward on a D17, to check the fuel flow. Take off the bowl and make sure there's a good flow out of the tank. Reinstall the bowl with a good screen and gasket, and make sure you get a good flow out of the fuel line right to the carb.
That will help you pinpoint the issue.
 
I have blown back from carb to bowl, ( and Ive drained the tank and cleaned it out). I have left the screen out for now, and will get a new one, not sure if they go bad, but it seems like I get air bubbles built around it, when its in ?. I took the carb drain plug off and I do get a flow of gas all the way through, when I open the valve on the bowl.. Do you know about where the needle valves should be at for starters? Any chance I could have a carb gasket in backwards ?
Thanks again..
 
I had an issue on a farmall m that my dad had. I cleaned the carb and set the float as it should be. I put it all back together and wouldn"t run worth a hoot. Took it apart and cleaned the jets etc. about 3 different times. When I went to assemble it the fourth time I noticed that the float hit the side of the fuel bowl. As I assembled it it was like the carb was full of fuel. I bent the float so that it didn"t hit the sides and ran like a charm. It might be something to look at?


Steven
 
I think we used to start at 1.5 to 2 turns open. Sounds like you've got flow. I doubt it's a gasket issue. A passage, orifice, or something is probably still partially plugged.
 
And.......a possibility.......but, probably not. There could be a gasket leak on the intake manifold or carb to manifold.
Shoot a little carb cleaner around these areas to see if engine speeds up.
 
Almost no way to install the gasket wrong and have all the bolt holes line up. First thing to check believe it or not do so any how is your spark. Make sure it is a blue/white in color and will jump a 1/4 inch gap at ALL 4 plug wires. Weak spark will make it so you have to have an extra rich mixture to burn well if at all. If your spark is good then check your air cleaner and make sure it has the right amount of oil and not full of dirt/water.
As for the carb when you had it open did you spray out ALL the passage ways with carb cleaner and did you also poke a small wire I use a torch tip cleaner tool into all the passage ways so as to make sure they are clear and open
 
Disconnect the air cleaner hose and try for power. If your oil bath filter was serviced irregularly over the year, dirt could be clogging the screen. If yours is a dry air cleaner, the element may need replaced.
 
I also think you need to check the intake. Had the same problem with mine. Check plugs 2 and 3. If they are lean I would start there.
 
Ok, thanks everyone, here's what Ive done. Replaced pluges, checked spark at plugs and at distributor cap,Looked real good. I have checked the air intake system, thats good. We Had it running real good for a while this eve, then all of a sudden it just starts acting like it's starving for gas. We tweek the jets a little, it straightens out for a while, then acts up again. Im taking the carb off again to give it it a good going over. Will let ya know happens next. Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 18:33:34 11/03/12) Ok, thanks everyone, here's what Ive done. Replaced pluges, checked spark at plugs and at distributor cap,Looked real good. I have checked the air intake system, thats good. We Had it running real good for a while this eve, then all of a sudden it just starts acting like it's starving for gas. We tweek the jets a little, it straightens out for a while, then acts up again. Im taking the carb off again to give it it a good going over. Will let ya know happens next. Thanks

When my WD had this problem, I had issues with gunk between where the gas inlet is on the carb to where it fills the bowl. Spraying and soaking the inlet for a few hours fixed this for me.
 
Just an FYI to all who have helped. I will be going out of town for the week ,so if I dont get the carb on this morn, it will be next Sat before I can give it the test
Thanks again..
 
It might be ignition related. My D grader that has the same engine had a similar problem. It would start and run fine but after a while it would start miss firing as if it was not getting enough fuel. I blamed the problem on a fuel problem and did all the things that you did. Finally I found that the coil would heat up after a while and it would start to miss fire. I replaced the coil and solved the problem.
 
Thanks, if the carb re-cleaning dont work, that was my next guess. I replaced the points, rotor & cap a few years ago so they should be OK, ( at least I know there not original parts ) There is a resistor between my coil and distributor . Is there a certain type of coil I need to get ? 12 or 6 volt ?
Thanks..
 
If I get a new coil with a built in 3 ohm resistor Do I still need the external resistor that is on the tractor now between the coil and dDistributer ??

Thanks
 

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