Three different WD plows -- need some information...

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have three plows for my pair of WDs... One has regular lift arms and drawbar linkage with pins, the other one has a snap-coupler type setup.

--a 3 Bottom with the hitch you have to pin underneath the tractor and then somehow you have to pin it to the lift arm holes.
--a 3 bottom with the snap coupler type attachment with the bell housing underneath the tractor and the two snap arms on the lift arms
--a 2 bottom pull behind plow with 2 wheels and a hydraulic cylinder

I have a plow manual for the "52/53" plow, which I believe is the first one I have listed... And it says that I need to remove the PTO shaft to put the plow on. Is the same true for the snap coupler plow; does the PTO shaft need to come off for it as well? How hard is the PTO shaft to take off?

For the ease of use, and for fun, I took the old two bottom pull behind out and dropped it in the ground, and did a single pass in a grassy field in 2nd gear half open... But I think something is frozen up on her. The front shear dropped right in and did a semi-decent job of rolling the sod, in spite of the rust. However, the second shear just sort of skimmed along the ground. I assume I probably have some sort of frozen adjustment issues?

Also, do I need to have the tires all the way in no matter which of the three plows I use -- or does it really even matter on the pull behind 2 bottom if they were halfway out? Is there a reason I should use a mounted 3 bottom instead of a pull behind 2 bottom? I just want to plow up a new garden spot and let the old plot go back to pasture for awhile. I think the plows are 3-14s and the other is a 2-16.
 
I can answer one question from my experience. Removing the PTO is a good idea because the front coulter on the 3 bottom mounted plow will hit the end o the PTO shaft. That causes little "dings" in the splines that have to be filed off before the PTO can be connected to the implement. It's only three bolts to remove.....
 
For the first plow, remove the pins at the top of the hitch bail so the drawbar can move up and down with the plow. When raised, the drawbar would conflict with the PTO, so remove the 2 bolts holding the bearing housing plus the bolt at the other end of the PTO shaft and it comes off.

For the snap coupler plow, I don't recall for certain. Hook it up, raise it carefully, and watch out.

For the hydraulic pull plow, the only one of those I remember had no tail wheel, rather had an adjustable chain hooked from the beam to the tongue which may be hooked too short.
 
(quoted from post at 21:31:15 10/26/12)
For the hydraulic pull plow, the only one of those I remember had no tail wheel, rather had an adjustable chain hooked from the beam to the tongue which may be hooked too short.

The two bottom one I've got has the wheels mostly across from each other (I think the right side or furrow wheel is a bit "forward" of the left side or land wheel). Facing from the rear of the plow to the front, there is a lever on the right side that pulls the right rear wheel "up" (to set depth for that side?), and then there's a chain that goes from over on the left to the hitch. Hydraulic cylinder will lift the plow, but I've got it not quite set right -- you have to put extra weight on the back to get it to "drop in", so to speak.
 

It is recommended that you convert to the "Snap-Coupler" setup, for safety reasons..

The only time I have found it necessary to remove my PTO (WD-45), is for the AC Sub-Soiler...
I broke one PTO carrier bearing mount with the Sub-Soiler ( got lazy and thought I could get by)..

The rear wheels are not set "All the way IN"for the 3-14" mounted plow..
They are set at the 1st stop out, from all the way "IN"..with a Stop on either side of the wheel eccentric lock..(Both left and right wheels)

Ron....
 

It is recommended that you convert to the "Snap-Coupler" setup, for safety reasons..

The only time I have found it necessary to remove my PTO (WD-45), is for the AC Sub-Soiler...
I broke one PTO carrier bearing mount with the Sub-Soiler ( got lazy and thought I could get by)..

The rear wheels are not set "All the way IN"for the 3-14" mounted plow..
They are set at the 1st stop out, from all the way "IN"..with a Stop on either side of the wheel eccentric lock..(Both left and right wheels).
The Pull-Type plow depends a lot on how the Plow Hitch is set, as to where the rear tires need to be set..

Ron....
 
(quoted from post at 21:52:11 10/26/12)
The rear wheels are not set "All the way IN"for the 3-14" mounted plow..
They are set at the 1st stop out, from all the way "IN"..with a Stop on either side of the wheel eccentric lock..(Both left and right wheels).
The Pull-Type plow depends a lot on how the Plow Hitch is set, as to where the rear tires need to be set..

Ron....

I think the wheels should look approximately like this when spun out for 3-14 plowing... Correct me if I am wrong, it's been many a year since this tractor has plowed:

fields.jpg


The wheels in the above pictures are spun out to something from all the way in... If your wheels are all the way in, they'll look like this:

cult2.jpg


In fact... The correct setting may be in between both of these tractors? Looking at the rails should show you in 30 seconds or less, though.
 

For my 4x14" Semi-Mounted plow, the rear wheels go out even farther, but not "ALL the way out"..just to the last place you can install a "Stop" on either side of the eccentric..
On the 3-14", it could be that the plow is adjusted right or left on the front cross bar and then work at a different wheel spacing..
I prefer to not have my rear wheels set too narrow.
For a 6' Bush Hog, I want them no wider than 6' outside to outside though..


Ron..
 
(quoted from post at 22:15:16 10/26/12)
For my 4x14" Semi-Mounted plow, the rear wheels go out even farther, but not "ALL the way out"..just to the last place you can install a "Stop" on either side of the eccentric..
On the 3-14", it could be that the plow is adjusted right or left on the front cross bar and then work at a different wheel spacing..
I prefer to not have my rear wheels set too narrow.
For a 6' Bush Hog, I want them no wider than 6' outside to outside though..


Ron..

Yeah, I like the medium set wheels (top picture up above) for mowing. The narrow wheels... About the only thing nice about them is turning radius. Makes it nice to move equipment and park stuff in sheds... But definitely not as comfortable feeling when driving it as having them spun out somewhat.
 
You will need to set the tires to 56" if they are 14" plow bottoms and 61" for 16" plow bottoms. you don"t need to remove the PTO for the snap coupler plow however its just 2 bolts at the back and a sholdered bolt where it attaches to the PTO drop box. You also need to adjust the wheel spacing for the pull plow. it needs to run with the correct spacing or it wont plow correctly.56" spacing is wheels all the way in and 61" is wheels at the first stop. for either the pin hitch or snapcoupler plow you need to set the hydraulics for traction booster operation. it should be a decal on the battery box on how to do this.
 
(quoted from post at 09:26:06 10/27/12) You will need to set the tires to 56" if they are 14" plow bottoms and 61" for 16" plow bottoms. you don"t need to remove the PTO for the snap coupler plow however its just 2 bolts at the back and a sholdered bolt where it attaches to the PTO drop box. You also need to adjust the wheel spacing for the pull plow. it needs to run with the correct spacing or it wont plow correctly.56" spacing is wheels all the way in and 61" is wheels at the first stop. for either the pin hitch or snapcoupler plow you need to set the hydraulics for traction booster operation. it should be a decal on the battery box on how to do this.

Is something different between the pin hitch and the snap coupler plow lift geometry in general? For why one may hit the PTO and the other won't?
 


A-Ha...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Never realized why they had split the front drawn bar on these..!!!
Thanks..I NEEDED That..!!
My 3x14" has the split bar and the Sub-Soiler does not..
Thanks...!!

I wonder how well a WD pulls a Sub-Soiler...it works a WD-45 Good and Hard in 2nd in some ground..
I can still hear my Grandad telling me to "Put it in 3rd and Take the Bridle Off"..!!!
What a ride..!!
Ron..
 

For my 30 Degree hillsides I mow, I need mine set out a little..even though they are loaded to the top of the rims..

Ron..
 
The WD pin hitch is actuallyy safer than the SC hitch. If you havea SC bell you MUST use the lift latches on the lift arms or you could get hurt REAL bad.
 
(quoted from post at 13:30:58 10/29/12)
Never realized why they had split the front drawn bar on these..!!!
Thanks..I NEEDED That..!!
My 3x14" has the split bar and the Sub-Soiler does not..

Actually, my 3 bottom snap coupler plow does NOT have a split draw bar... Hmmm... Interesting...

(quoted from post at 19:13:11 11/01/12) The WD pin hitch is actuallyy safer than the SC hitch. If you havea SC bell you MUST use the lift latches on the lift arms or you could get hurt REAL bad.

This is good for me... I have both the bell and the proper lift latches for my tractor.
 


NO, NO, NO..the SC, with the release-latches on the lift arms are Safe...very safe..
The WD Cross-pin hitch can be a Killer..IF the pin gets out or breaks..the plow will swing up and get in the Seat with you..
There IS NO way for the lift arms to release..

Ron.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top