More details on my 1953 AC CA

Now that I can put some pics up, I'll give you a bit more detail. First, I mentioned that the front end had something attached to the front end left tie rod...here it is:




As for the sloppy steering I mentioned, there's a lot of play in the steering wheel, so I'm guessing that my problem lies in here:



The guys in my other post were right about the snap coupler under the seat, but my problem is with the handle, in that there's not enough room for the handle to disconnect:




Here's my 3 point with the snap coupler:




Am I better off just dropping the implements and putting them all on the same snap coupler assembly (if so, I'll want to find something a little better than the nut and bolt system it currently has for the implements)?

I noticed the front tire seems to be rubbing on the tie rod end. Does this look like it's adjusted right?




Finally, I've had to jump start the battery every morning. I was told when I got the rig that the battery was only a year old. I noticed that the ammeter shows discharge when the light switch is in either position, but I never see a charge. Do I need to try repolarizing the generator? Am I right in assuming that this is the cut out box (the box mounted on the generator)?



That ought to be enough aggravation for some of the old timers to try to sort out, so I'll give you guys a break. Thanks for any advice/assistance in advance.

That thing on the steering looks like some sort of dampner, installed rather than fix a real sloppy problem. Your easiest fix is on the Snap-Coupler release- shorten the chain. That 3ph is a cobbled up mess- I"d junk that and get something decent or go back to the factory Snap-Coupler system and look for implements made for it.

If you put the correct tires on the front rather than car tires they will probably clear just fine.

The deal on the front is a damper or shock absorber. (Probly) an attempt to remove the play in the steering. The steering box being the actual place of were at the palls. The CA has two palls instead of one. The steering arms on the spindles have been switched from side to side. Right arm on the left. Could be a bad cut out causing the discharge. Need to check with a meter to see what is going on.

Steering gear looks like a bodge up job, with the plate under it, and the welded steering arm. Steering dampener looks like it came off'n a jeep, with big tires, chuck it, change to tri rib front tire, and check spindles for tightness, and being bent.

I'm not real familiar with the CA, but it looks to me like someone cut off the lift arm ends? There is supposed to be some lift arm spring latches on there. Might have taken them off for the 3 point. The snap coupler disconnect just needs to be adjusted. From what you said, you need to take up a couple of links of the chain. It will then be able to be pushed down farther so it will disconnect. The steering arms are either switched, or the left side needs to be taken off and moved (one or two teeth) away from the tire and put back on.
The whole thing has been cobbled, but it is fixable real easily. Just don't get disgusted and keep asking. Its workable. Ted J

With your steering arm being lengthened that would exagerate any play you have in your steering box and make it steer harder.

Also got to wonder what the steering box came from. Considering the arm is pointing down and it is mounted back from the original location, probably isn't AC.

Good pic's !! Part of your problem might be the gear-case in pic #3, it looks like that downward arm was broke and welded on about 5 inches too long,both the front and rear steering arms should be pointed up, the worm gear in that pic also has a habit of wearing out. that and wear in the front gearbox is enough to lose control at road speed, I know, took out 25 ft of cable guardrail once, BE CAREFUL !!Dan

I didn't look at the picture of the steering box close enough before. It is not even close to a steering box used on a CA. Way to high at the top and a bracket was made to hold in position. I am wondering if I see a hydraulic hose going to the back side of the box.

So I looked at the steering box, and there's an "S" stamped on the side, on the housing above the steering arm curvature in my pic. Any guesses as to what that's off of? I'm thinking I need to know, especially if the steering column shaft is dependent on that particular steering box.

A questions on the lift hitches. In my pic from the left side, the lift arm on the vertical is apparently homemade and there's no side-to-side play in the arm. Do they make the arms like that with a quick release of some kind, or do I need to actually take the 3 point pins out to swap implements? I haven't really played with that much yet, because I haven't figured out yet where I want to drop this blade on my property, and I don't have the implement I really need to start around here with, the landscaping rake. And I need to practice backing up with lousy steering and get close to where I need to be to change an implement(hey, I'm a tractor newbie, what can I say?).

I can take some more detail pictures of the steering system and/or the lift hitch system I've got if it'll help anyone. Let me know and thanks in advance, guys.

Jim Comfort

The only way I would keep using the snap-coupler for anything other than a drawbar and a plow would be IF I had a full complement of Snap-Coupler AC equipment...
Look around and find a good example of how someone has converted to be able to use true 3-Point equipment..then, anything you find is a prospective piece..

Ron..

Dick, I see the hose, on the front side of the box, now. That box looks like no gemmer or ross gear, that I have ever seen before. Also kinda looks like the input shaft, from the steering wheel, is about 1-5 degrees off square, if you look at it, long enough. I cant remember how the arm is supposed to point, but I know it shouldn't be double, and welded!

That's what I forgot to mention to you guys. The "hose" behind the steering box is actually the sheathed wires from the generator to the ingition box. Also, the arm is, indeed a broken arm that's been welded.