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Model WD Sediment Bowl needs new Valve Stem Packing?

W

Will Herring

Well-known Member
I replaced the sediment bowl and valve assembly in 2003 with a whole new part as the original was falling apart on this old girl... However, within the last year or so, the new shutoff valve has been leaking around the valve stem. When you have it open and the gas is on, it seems to be okay, but when you turn the gas off it leaks out.

What would the proper name be for the part I need to replace on this without having to buy a whole new sediment bowl/gas valve assembly?

leak.jpg


Like, it is just a needle valve or something? Or, can I just buy something to make my own packing with?

I hesitate to pull the old one off of there until I have a solution, but I ran the tractor about out of gas today, so I hope to fix the problem in the coming week or two.
 
If tightening the outer nut doesn't work, (DO NOT over tighten this, as it will strip out easily) you can go to any hardware store and get some packing that will work for a few years before you will have to do it again.
 
(quoted from post at 17:56:40 04/17/11) If tightening the outer nut doesn't work, (DO NOT over tighten this, as it will strip out easily) you can go to any hardware store and get some packing that will work for a few years before you will have to do it again.
Click to expand...

I think the thing is as tight as it will go (or at least as tight as I want to put pressure on it).

Any recommendations on the seal? Cotton, nylon, rubber, some other thing?
 
Whole part, bowl, valve, and internal screen is only about $25 +/-. Call Sandy lake equipment, in western Pa, order it, and next time the tank is dry, replace it. Bet it won't take more than 1/2 hour.
 
There are a couple of ways to do it. One is an 'O' ring that fits snugly. Not too thick though, you need to get the nut on. The one I like is packing for faucets. It is called graphite twist packing. It works really well, but you need to take time to put it in correctly. They can tell you (show You) how to do it at the hardware store. Hope this helps. Ted
 
Over the years I've come to hate sediment bowls. Anymore I use a small ball valve with an inline filter. Did I say I HATE SEDIMENT BOWLS?
 
Don't know where you are at Will, but around here in WI we have Farm & Fleet and Fleet Farm stores. They carry the sediment bowls, etc. and it is nice to have an extra on hand anyway. At least I do...
Let me know how you make out...Ted
 
Remove the shutoff valve stem and check to see if there is rust or other gunk in the seat not allowing you to completely turn it off.
 
You can make the packing with a piece of store string and a bar of smooth soap. Just saw the string back & forth untill it is full of soap & use it.
 
Your sediment bowl has two seats that seal. One seals to the outside when the fuel is turned on. The other seals to the inside when the fuel is turned off but allows the fuel around the stem. Usually you can tighten the nut and the packing will seal. Many of the new ones I have seen don't seem to ever quite leaking no matter how much you tighten the nut. The handle on some is staked on. You can turn the fuel on. Then completely loosen the nut and twist teflon tape into a small string then wrap it around the stem and tighten the nut. Turn off the fuel and tighten the nut til it quites leaking. I have also been putting small ball valves between the sediment bowl and carb for my customers. Then you can leave the sediment bowl turned on all the time and not have to worry about leaks.
 
Okay so I went ahead and bought a completely new valve assembly. Now that I put everything on it, the compression fitting between the elbow and the gas line that runs to the carb leaks. I'm afraid it is worn out. What is the best way to put a new brass nut on the flared gas line (or do I have to buy a new one)?

Every time I think I have something fixed, something else breaks... I swear...
 
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