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WD 45 diesel to gas conversion

The easiest way to convert one to gas is with either a 230 gas from a combine or a 262 from a D19 or combine. The 45D is has plenty of collector value. Your engine is in really bad shape? A 262 diesel from an early D17 will bolt right in too.
 
ok, Brian answered part of my question, bd230 and b230 are interchangable.

Now to clear something up, I do not have a diesel, I have a motorless WD and a Buda motor from a Gleaner combine. The conversion I actually need information on is a 4cyl to 6cyl swap because I want to use what I have.

I've got a Buda in my CoOp E4 and I love it, good power, smooth.

So I question was really in reverse because I have read that several people have gone buda to AC gas, so I want to know which parts had to change.. grill/bellhousing?

-ron
 
You will need a longer hood from a 45D tractor, need the diesel radiator too. I don't know for sure, but I think maybe the drive shaft from the trans might be a little different.
 
I saw ond done like you want at the Rollag Threshing show. The guy had to move the radiator and grill forward to the front of the cast front bolster to clear the 6 cyl engine.
He had to add a few inches to the hood and move the holes for air and exhaust around.
The rear of the engine appeared to bolt right up.
It looked good enough to be mistaken for a factory install.
 
Jon I'd have loved to see that,my trip to Rollag was cut short this year dye to family medical issues.

-ron
 
262 gas in a WD45
The 'naughty word' filter will not allow me to publish the direct URL, it complains about special characters. I don't want to break any forum rules about linking to other sites, but if you open google and paste in '262 Gas WD45' it was the very first presented link for me, it was to a different dedicated Allis Chalmers website.

My Google Search

Hi Gordel, I have did it...my 262 is out of Gleaner C also. I am just finishing up the paint work and re assembling after completing the installation/conversion. In my opinion AC should have built a 45 with a six cylinder from day one..It runs so smooth and has big power!! 90plus horses! and sound sweet.

All you need is the following:

-45D adapter plate or use the adapter from the combine and use a 45D plate to drill your holes.
-45D flywheel or the flywheel from cockshutt 40 or 50 will work
-45D heavy spring clutch plate
-45D throttle linkage used to go to the injection pump and convert it to work with the governor
-D19 Governor or Cockshutt governor if you want it to run like a normal tractor
-45D rad or convert the 45Gas rad
45D hood
Click to expand...

Well that's not so bad, I'll have to check when I get to Dad's house next but I should have all of the clutch parts, the throttle linkage might be a fabricated unit and I might have to run without a hood (or Steiner Tractor sells a diesel hood for $480)

-ron
 
Around 1963-64 my WD45D went into diesel arrest and so I parked it in the weeds. Later on my Wd had a major malfunction in the steering sector which would have cost a lot to repair. I got to thinking about that WD45D which was a very good tractor except for the engine and that WD which could not be driven but had a good gas motor,so, we pulled them into the shop,took the diesel out and put the gas engine,raiator,grille shell,hood etc from the WD gas into the diesel chassis and I had one good tractor from the two parts tractors I had. Used that rebuilt tractor until my farm sale several years later. Was an easy swap. I gave the wd chassis and all the left over parts to a neighbor and he found a combine engine and put it in the WD chassis,modifyed the long hood etc from the diesel and he ended up with a good useable tractor for not much cost.
 
That would be similar to my plan..
I know where there are 2 running Gleaner combines with Buda motors, I know where there are 2 WD's that need motors. The Buda motors can be bought for $100-$150 each with all the accessories and the bellhousing adapters. I figure I might have to run 'hoodless' for a while until I can get that figured out. I would run support straps from the gas tank up to the radiator shell to keep it from moving.. but I won't be storing them outside (or if I do they will get a tarp) so for now.. should work just fine.

Plus if I can keep just 1 engine family on the farm, that means less parts to store, less 'figuring out' when things go wrong.. If I keep my CoOp as a CoOp it will be a very similar orange to the AC color.. (I could potentially paint it up to look like a Cockshutt 40, which is yellow and red)

-ron
 
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