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Article Comments
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bruce . whiteman wrote on Monday, May 24, 2004 (PDT):
  • very good article-- I have had 8 & 9 N's for 40 yrs. the only problem I have now is sometimes when the lever is moved back for the 3 pt to lift it won't go only if you pull forward on the upper control. assempbly toward the spring ?????? Bruce/
    Don Espinosa wrote on Saturday, October 09, 2004 (PDT):
  • My problem is that the 3point hitch will not come up. I took the inspection plate off and the pump appears to be working. I am stuck. Thank you for any help you can give me. I am a novice but have the repair manual. the 3point worked until I evidently pushed the lever to far down, if that is possible.
    JIM WEISBRUCH wrote on Tuesday, November 09, 2004 (PST):
  • Question - have 8N front dis. - front plow will not come down and the lever feels like it is disconnected in up or down. When i move the short lever under the seat to the forward down position and back to up position - blade drops and all up and down is normal for a while. Sure am fit to be tied with this - fresh oil. Can you help me? Thanks
    tom wrote on Saturday, November 13, 2004 (PST):
  • Exactly right. If there were only some photos it would make it easier to follow. Made me first afraid to remove the right things, and now that I see what happened. I see I might have caused the problem by loosening the wrong bolts on the top cover, starting, and blowing the gasket holding the cyl. thanks again for posting
    Tom Waydelis wrote on Tuesday, April 12, 2005 (PDT):
  • Zane, Where do i find a live hydraulic device ? please send me More info. Tom
    Lyndal Britt wrote on Sunday, July 17, 2005 (PDT):
  • 52 8N. Lift will come up without load but will not lift with load applied. Replaced cylinder and piston and rings because of running leak. Did not solve problem. There is oil swirl near the pump. Could the relief valve be bad?
    Dave Belfer-Shevett wrote on Friday, July 22, 2005 (PDT):
  • I did the exact same thing visiting an 8N I grew up with. I blogged about it, and even posted pictures.
    blue wrote on Saturday, August 13, 2005 (PDT):
  • !!!
    BLW wrote on Saturday, October 08, 2005 (PDT):
  • liked your article very much, but I have a different prob.em, one I have never seen-- when I pull the lift handle back the three point goes up- but when I have a heavy load on it, it will only go up if I pull forward on the upper link-,- the top link with the spring, and not if the tip link is connected to the top link arm to what ever implement I have on the tractor-- any Ideas
    tony thornton wrote on Monday, March 06, 2006 (PST):
  • I have massey ferguson to30 and the lift goes up put has soon as you push in on the clutch it falls to the ground
    Mike wrote on Monday, July 10, 2006 (PDT):
  • Great article. I'm sure there are thousands of guys out there (i'm one of them) who share the memories and experiences of a piece of equipment. A person buys equipment to do dirty work, who would think it'd bring back such great memories?
    Rick Bampton wrote on Monday, August 21, 2006 (PDT):
  • BE SURE THAT THE PTO IS ENGAGED UNLESS YOU HAVE ONE OF MY LIVE HYDRAULIC DEVICES WHICH WILL ALLOW YOU TO USE THE THREE POINT HITCH WITHOUT THE PTO IN OPERATION OR THE CLUTCH ENGAGED
    rick Bampton wrote on Monday, August 21, 2006 (PDT):
  • Please disregard the previous email. I was reading an article you have on hydraulic problems and came across this below. Can you tell me what it is and how much it costs to install this feature? "BE SURE THAT THE PTO IS ENGAGED UNLESS YOU HAVE ONE OF MY LIVE HYDRAULIC DEVICES WHICH WILL ALLOW YOU TO USE THE THREE POINT HITCH WITHOUT THE PTO IN OPERATION OR THE CLUTCH ENGAGED"
    Mr Bob wrote on Wednesday, November 08, 2006 (PST):
  • What a great story. I hope you can get the Massey back some day. You are fortunate to have been able to locate it. My feelings about the Massey Ferguson 65 that I once operated on my dad's farm are about like yours. I've never been able to relocate it. That tractor always gave me the feeling of sitting down low on a powerful beast. My 5'1o" carcass always seemed to fit so comfortable on a Ford "red and grey" or a Massey. They are by far my favorites. Good luck in your effort to gain possession of your "old friend".
    Garry Thompson wrote on Wednesday, November 08, 2006 (PST):
  • I know the feeling My Grandfather purchased a TO35 in 1958 I was 8 years old and Ill not forget him letting me drive it around in 3RD low range It was one tuff little tractor Two years later my dad bought a freeman loader for it, 30 years later my sister bought it at our farm sale and it run until three years ago and they sold it
    Gene Jenkins wrote on Saturday, August 04, 2007 (PDT):
  • I m having a real hard time trying to get my relief valve out. I cut off a 11/16Wrench but couldn t get enough pull to break the valve loose. Any suggestions Thanks, Gene
    danct wrote on Saturday, February 02, 2008 (PST):
  • i know the feeling ,you wont be complete till you find a way to get it back ,part of you ,your dad and that tractor are bound together for life , find a way Danny
    skip meyer wrote on Sunday, February 03, 2008 (PST):
  • my hydralic system was working fine. I was scrapping with a blade, it made a pop type sound, It wouldn't pick up the blade. Without a load the arms raise, but I can push them down with my hand. What do you suspesct?
    Don Posten wrote on Saturday, June 06, 2009 (PDT):
  • Any help or suggestions would really be appreciated. Thanks Don
    Jerry Archer wrote on Friday, August 14, 2009 (PDT):
  • Zane- Thanks a lot for your help on my 1940 9N 3 point lift problem. My system had a lot of water and Brown liquid that smelled like Kerosene in it. Replaced system with 5 Gallons of minereal oil and now it works like brand new. Thanks again Zane
    Jim Johnson wrote on Friday, September 04, 2009 (PDT):
  • The 3 pt lift seemed to work just fine until I drained the water contaminated hydraulic oil and filled it up with new 90 wt. oil from New Holland. Nothing else was touched, so is it possible that the pump lost its prime or something like that?
    Jim Johnson wrote on Friday, September 04, 2009 (PDT):
  • I guess I should have included that I'm talking about a 1950 8N and that after only changing the hydraulic fluid, the lift is now all the way down and won't raise.
    Jeff Gammon wrote on Friday, December 04, 2009 (PST):
  • Zane, how do you set up live hydraulics on a 8n. I saw a picture where you had added a pump on yours. 'what else hase to be done. Thanks, Jeff
    Patrick Gagne wrote on Saturday, December 05, 2009 (PST):
  • As guys we may not get movies like "An Affair to Remember" but on the other hand I think they never will get the attachment we guys have to our tractors, cars, guns ect. I can see it in my wifes face when ever I see a 1970 Chevelle and have to run my hand down the fender thinking back to the day when I way 15 washing my first car befor a date or just to take a drive. Nice story thank
    Ray Patterson wrote on Saturday, February 20, 2010 (PST):
  • this article refers to "one of my live hydraulic devices." May I inquire what the device is and where I can obtain one for myself? Thank you.
    mike porter wrote on Friday, May 14, 2010 (PDT):
  • one thing left out of the article is the grade of oil. ford and ferguson to & te also use this oil, known as ep-90! it's available at most tractor supply stores,(tsc.) and car quest auto parts stores will order it for you in 5 gallon pails, or 2.5 gal. containers. the ep stands for extreme pressure, and if you use hy-trans oil in a 2-8- or 9n , when the oil heats up, your hydraulics can go away, leaving you thinking the pump is weak. ep-90 cures most of these symtoms as long as your pump and check valve are in good shape.
    Bob Stalmach wrote on Monday, June 14, 2010 (PDT):
  • Thanks for this good info. to get me started in the right direction.
    Bob Stalmach wrote on Monday, June 14, 2010 (PDT):
  • Thanks for this good info. to get me started in the right direction.
    jack cleaver wrote on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 (PDT):
  • as others looking for info on this live hyd setup web site is shut down anybody got contact info
    Sam Parish wrote on Wednesday, August 18, 2010 (PDT):
  • I also would like to contact Zane about one of his devices--I am having a hydraulic pump problem on a Ford 4000--pump has been rebuilt but loses it's prime over night--
    Denny Harris wrote on Sunday, September 26, 2010 (PDT):
  • I have a TO20. The lever that engages & disengages the pto seems stuck. I've taken off the inspection plate, but can't see anything wrong. Do I need to remove the top plate that the seat bolts on? If so what needs to come off? Thanks
    Glen Quigley wrote on Monday, November 01, 2010 (PDT):
  • Thanks for the post which gave me the confindence to remove the side cover, drain and clean the sludge, and ultimately free the stuck value. Much appreciated. The information that is available on the net is amazing. Thanks so much for sharing what is a precious, information.
    Jim Will wrote on Monday, November 08, 2010 (PST):
  • Hi I understand that feeling. I had a Case 530 CK loader backhoe that I used for near 30 years. Every time I see one as I am driving by, I think of my old 530. Jim Will
    Art P wrote on Tuesday, November 09, 2010 (PST):
  • This helped me on my son's 801 tractor. Thanks
    Don Billings wrote on Saturday, February 05, 2011 (PST):
  • My hydraulic three point hitch works very slow in cold weather. I have to let the tractor warm up for 15 minutes at least before using and then it comes up slowly and returns slowly. Also the control lever is very loose and will not stay in the up position. What is wrong?
    Rusty Rose wrote on Monday, October 31, 2011 (PDT):
  • I followed all posts and did not see problem. Finally pulled pump and intake valve was stuck in the pump. Polished it and got it coming out when the linkage moved and problem solved. First time I heard of this problem.
    Rusty Rose wrote on Monday, October 31, 2011 (PDT):
  • I followed all posts and did not see problem. Finally pulled pump and intake valve was stuck in the pump. Polished it and got it coming out when the linkage moved and problem solved. First time I heard of this problem.
    Terry Carpenter wrote on Saturday, December 03, 2011 (PST):
  • i have the same problem as Jim johnson, September 04, 2009. I have did a rebuild on the pump to no avail. The pump works but does not have any out put.
    mike porter wrote on Saturday, July 14, 2012 (PDT):
  • trans. oil is also a critical solution to hyd. problems on n-series fords and t-o fergusons. the correct oil is e-p 90, available from carquest parts stores, also t-s-c stores. it's not 80-90 gear oil, the e-p designation is for extreme pressure. while hy-trans might work for some, e-p 90 is made to give optimum pressure for ford and ferguson tractors.
    Wayne wrote on Sunday, February 24, 2013 (PST):
  • Has anyone been able to find out about this live hydrolic adapter for the 8n?
    waylon bryan wrote on Monday, March 04, 2013 (PST):
  • My hyd. cyl. broke the whole end sheared off. I have one on order but what would cause the end to break off? If you have a idea please let me know. Thanks Waylon
    Luis wrote on Wednesday, April 03, 2013 (PDT):
  • Pops - Great pictures and what fun we had. We slhuod do it again.I really like the close-up pic of the fFrd. It looks like it slhuod be on the cover of an antique magazine.I think your shoot on the 15th will bw great ..hope the weather cooperates.Lopve, Pops
    Stuart Mason wrote on Wednesday, June 26, 2013 (PDT):
  • My lift is acting very lazy. I changed the fluid but changed nothing.when it goes up its jumpy all the way up, and slow. can you make the lift on an 8n a live lift, if so how. thanks
    Bryan Pedeaux wrote on Monday, October 28, 2013 (PDT):
  • My Ford 8N lost the lift handle stop and the handle apparently went too high. Now I can cause the lift to go up but it does not hold. I suspect that the linkage has somehow gotten over a top point and thus will not function. Any thoughts?
    David Nicholson wrote on Sunday, March 23, 2014 (PDT):
  • Hello, I'm just another "newbie". I bought a "rebuilt" and "pretty" (Heavily painted) 1951 Ford 8 N tractor in 2010. I have been restoring vehicles for about 30 years, thus I purchased ALL of the owner’s manuals for my "new" tractor! I FIRST discovered that the tractor had a 12 VDC battery, BUT it still had a 6 VDC ignition, and the original 6 VDC Generator. No wonder the battery always went dead - huh? I replaced the generator with an 12 V alternator, and converted all to 12 Volts. I KNOW – BUT - I'm interested in a WORKING tractor, and not just a "show" tractor - OK? NOW, after almost two years the hydraulics became a serious problem. They worked fine when I purchased the tractor, BUT NOW (two years later) they constantly (and QUICKLY) bled down. Using just a "middle buster" (which weights maybe 100#) the hitch would bleed down faster than I could engage the transmission! SO... I began some deeper research, and found out that FEW individuals truly understand the hydraulic requirements of these old tractors! Just by checking the fluid via the dipstick, all seemed wonderful! The fluid appeared very transparent, and looked great (Clean and not burnt)! However – upon further research I discovered that it SHOULD NOT be as thin as this, as most “Universal” tractor hydraulic fluid! I “suspected” that is exactly what the previous owner had installed. What surprised me was that it had taken almost TWO YEARS for this issue to show itself! Then I located some mineral oil SAE 90 GL – 1 fluid at NAPA 5 gallons (cost as of 3/15/2014 was 58.99) this is what is specified by the original owners manual (if operated above 32 Deg. F) as I do. Since I had some experience with some oils used in automotive practice, I SEROIUSLY suspected that the fluid in the trans./hydraulic/ and rear end of MY tractor was NOT correct! It was WAY too thin (lightweight)! It is my belief that the previous owner just purchased some “universal” tractor hydraulic fluid. SO.. I purchased 5 gallons of the new mGL – 1, SAE 90 wt. Mineral oil (as defined by the owners manual) and decided to change out the oil. BUT – when I drained the original oil, I discovered about 1” of “SLUDGE” in the bottom of the hydraulic area, and even WORSE in the rear axle area! This is where these forums came in VERY handy! I read ALL I could find about this issue, and I wound up “flushing” the system with diesel (about 3-4 times). I actually did so with an original amount of 2.5 gallons, BUT, the system was STILL so nasty that I purchased another 3 gallons of diesel, and flushed it all over again! I then drained all very well, and allowed a few hours of “evaporation” before installing the new S.A.E. 90 mineral oil. NOW,… This is a NEW posting, and I do still have some reservations about the LONG TERM solution of my issues, BUT - SO FAR it has worked WONDERFUL! My tranny is quieter, my hydraulics function as they should (No bleed-down), and my rear-end is quiet! This seems to have solved ALL of my issues? It remains to be seen what damage the previous owners may have caused by using the wrong fluids? I’ll update as needed!
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