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Article Comments
Comments for Restoration%20Story
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J.S.Erwin Jr. wrote on Friday, February 02, 2001 (PST):
  • nice story I am going to look at 10 20 tommorw I rember them when I was a kid
    mike wrote on Friday, February 02, 2001 (PST):
  • I can't see any of your pictures
    Jim Hay wrote on Saturday, February 03, 2001 (PST):
  • Can't open any pictures. Just get the Anglefire logo.
    ken church wrote on Saturday, February 03, 2001 (PST):
  • nice job Randy ,pictures real good. Iam the guy who got the f-12 wheels from your dad and then brought them back (cause they were wrong size) your dad had told me then about your project. hopefully we will meet someday at a show. keep in touch ,Ken
    BUZZ wrote on Saturday, February 03, 2001 (PST):
  • INTERESTING ARTICLE, HOWEVER THE PICTURES ARE BLANK!
    Paul Pirtle wrote on Saturday, February 03, 2001 (PST):
  • Sure would like to be able to load the pictures. Get nothing but the Anglefire logo.
    Chris Hayden wrote on Saturday, February 03, 2001 (PST):
  • Great article. I know a lot of work went into that 10/20. Everything on it is heavy and large. I had to borrow a socket to get the flywheel nut off my 15/30. I believe it was 3 1/2". I'm also unable to get any pictures--Anglefire logo and a blank page, however I also see in the comments that at least one person was able to view them. How about adding to your comments how you did this. Maybe my computer is missing a program. Thanks-I did want to see what color yours is.
    ken church wrote on Saturday, February 03, 2001 (PST):
  • in regards to the pictures all I did was click on the blue words. I believe that randy has aol the same as I do maybe that is the reason I know a lot of times i have trouble withanother carrier and don't know how to do it maybe someone else can help they are nice pictures
    Myself wrote on Saturday, February 03, 2001 (PST):
  • These links in this story take me knowhere
    Mike Sitton wrote on Saturday, February 03, 2001 (PST):
  • I enjoyed reading about the 10-20. It gives me hope on restoring my 10-20, 20I, and 15-30 someday.
    Steve wrote on Sunday, February 04, 2001 (PST):
  • Nice story but like many others cannot view pictures. What gives?
    Dan Fischer wrote on Sunday, February 04, 2001 (PST):
  • Great story! I too can not see your pictures. I also have a 1020 that I am restoring. After an engine teardown, I have that part running well. now my next project is to find some fenders. From the way things look, the brake did not work too good or my uncle's father didn't bother to use it when he backed up to equiptment! Any imformation would be much appreciated.
    Richard wrote on Sunday, February 04, 2001 (PST):
  • Don't know how full size computers work, But on my little cheap Webtv puter, If I hit *reload* the photos came up. Enjoyed the story.
    Henry Harrison wrote on Sunday, February 04, 2001 (PST):
  • I can not get any of the pictures. (10;30 pm 2-4-01) I have tried both Netscape 4.73 and IE 5.5.
    Jack Cohoon wrote on Monday, February 05, 2001 (PST):
  • My Dad taught me to drive on a 10 20 when I was about 7 years old. He had just converted the wheels to rubber tires at the time which made the tractor easier to steer. Continue the work on a strong work horse of a tractor. We farmed over 400 acres with a 10 20 and a 15 30. Post a picture when you can.
    Grant Baker wrote on Monday, February 05, 2001 (PST):
  • Angelfire does not allow me to see the pics of this tractor.Is this a McCormick-Deering 1020? Grumpiest.tripod.com/mcd.jpg
    ronaldwcochran wrote on Monday, February 05, 2001 (PST):
  • what does it mean to "cut" the tires.
    Karl Bader wrote on Monday, February 05, 2001 (PST):
  • None of the links came up as pictures just the hosted by logo. Hope this helps! Karl
    dan dooley wrote on Monday, February 05, 2001 (PST):
  • hope that you painted your tractor white and took its picture in a snowstorm......or else I didn't see the tractor pictures. Good story and hope the pictures come up latter.
    Paul Shuler wrote on Monday, February 05, 2001 (PST):
  • Interesting story. I couldn't get any of the photos to display. Sure it would have been even more interesting with them
    hank schade wrote on Monday, February 05, 2001 (PST):
  • If you still need a hood for the 10-20 I have a restorable one.
    Tim Pickles wrote on Tuesday, February 06, 2001 (PST):
  • I can't seem to see any of the images! I click on the link and it takes me to Anglefire, but nothing appears!
    Allan Grogan wrote on Wednesday, February 07, 2001 (PST):
  • My dad had a 10-20 when I was a small kid, have a picture of my brother and myself on tractor taken in 1940 or so. I wanted to see your pictures but got only the angelfire logo, not a sign of any graphics. Hope you can make so all of us can view your photos. Allan
    Catless wrote on Friday, February 09, 2001 (PST):
  • to open the pictures, oyou have to remove one of the / after .com, should be .com/mi3/
    Bob Lewis wrote on Saturday, February 10, 2001 (PST):
  • Good job on getting the pistons broken loose without damaging them! Too bad the pictures wouldn't load. As soon as my broken foot heals, it's back to work on my 1942 Allis, Model "C".
    Dirk Arrington wrote on Saturday, February 10, 2001 (PST):
  • I could not see the pictures when I clicked on them. I just got an image that said the picture was "hosted by Anglefire"?!
    LOUIS SAETZ wrote on Friday, April 05, 2002 (PST):
  • Dear Mr. Simon; I read your story on the 10-20 with great interest. I'm particularly interested in the push rods. The holes were intended to carry oil (from the top) to oil the camshaft and the associated parts. I don't beleive that these rods were next to water so that water could enter through them. You may have made a mistake welding these holes shut. I once owned a 15-30 1928 model. You are correct that they used ball bearings on the crankshaft. There were two large bearings (one on each end) of the crankshaft. There was no center main bearing. The rods had babbit bearings. This was a good tractor in its day. Louis Saetz
    Ralph Arnold wrote on Thursday, May 15, 2003 (PDT):
  • I am righting to find out whear to get parts for a 15 30 McCormic Deering Think you
    WVClio wrote on Friday, March 16, 2007 (PDT):
  • Can anyone tell me where the decals go on a 10-20
    Mike Ascheman wrote on Saturday, July 07, 2007 (PDT):
  • I am also in process of restoring a 1928 McCormic 10-20, and enjoyed your article. Would appreciate info on obtaining Rings and Gaskets for the engine.
    russ hamm wrote on Thursday, July 12, 2007 (PDT):
  • Great story. Louis is right, those guides should have holes in them for the oil to run down. They are in the oil passage of the block, and no water will get close.
    darleen wrote on Tuesday, March 11, 2008 (PDT):
  • WE owned and operated a 2000 acre dairy farm in central Wi for 45 years, and owned many red impliment, and tractors.. along with one green guy... His father owned a 1020 Mc Corick Deering in 1930. We are looking for a photo of like tractor for a memory album. I have looked on the internet, and can't find such an animal... any suggestions?The history of his fathers farm, and all the equipment he owned and used, is in his album. I surely would like to include the 1020....
    Vern Long wrote on Monday, July 14, 2008 (PDT):
  • We have a McCormick-Deering Steel wheels in our museum. Can you tell me where to look to ID the year and model? Thanks for your help, VL
    Dave Koenigsfeld wrote on Wednesday, October 01, 2008 (PDT):
  • I am working on two 10-20s that are froze up. My motor guy just called and said the crank is seized and he can handle getting the pistons out. Your article gives me hope but I need to find out some more detailed information to get these guys moving or find someone else to help me out. Thanks, Dave Nixa, MO
    LenRahilly wrote on Wednesday, October 08, 2008 (PDT):
  • My grandfather bought a 10-20 new in 1929. My father inherited it in 1935. By the time I was 10, I had already been driving my father's F-12 for a couple of years, and simply "graduated" to the 10-20. It now makes my hair stand on end to think of a spindly 10-year old driving a 4000+ pound beast like this. What would OHSA say? I had decided I was going to drive it, and nobody stopped me. This is not exactly a "handy" tractor, and it was not designed to be. It was, like the majority of tractors of its time, made to 1) pull implements like plows and harrows 2) operate belt-driven machines like stationary threshers and stationary ensilage choppers. This is, for its day, a fairly comfortable tractor. There is a decent platform, on which you can stand when your tail begins to ache from all the bumping, and the controls are pretty decently placed. A lot of early tractors seemed to find room for the driver after everything else was in place (compare the Farmall and Farmall-20--the driver sits on a stalk that extends out behind the rear-axle housing, there is no comfortable place for the feet, and the gear-shift lever is a real stretch; the ride is, to put it kindly, bouncy on that stalk that sticks out back like a seesaw). The steering on our tractor was extremely stiff. Of course there were no rubber tires on farm tractors in 1929, so all four wheels were shod in steel. The front wheels had an angle-iron ring that projected above the rim of the wheel a couple of inches. It was supposed to dig into the soil enough to pull the tractor around. It worked just fine when there was no load, but with a very heavy load, such as the 7-foot double disk that we used, the tractor was reluctant to turn in loose soil (the load was essentially pulling backwards from the center of the drawbar; a bit of geometry can show that as the tractor tries to turn, the load is resisting). I found eventually that slowing the tractor to a near-idle speed would reduce the load and that the tractor would then turn just fine. This tractor is fairly typical of most early tractors. They used huge engines, turning very slowly, to produce a modest amount of horsepower. This was obviously an engineering decision. I suspect it had to do partly with distrust of the lubrication systems that were common in the early days of internal-combustion engines. This engine is lubricated entirely by splash from the connecting rods, EXCEPT for the valves, which are lubricated thanks to the good will of the operator, who had to use an oil can to shoot a modicum of oil into two openings atop the valve cover. Wicks inside soaked up the oil, which then dripped slowly over the rocker-arm bushings and down the rocker arms themselves to the valve stems. Failing to lube the valves meant eventual sticking of valves. In fact, one of the common problems with these tractors was a sticking valve or two, discovered in the spring. The operator had failed to flood the valves with oil before storing the tractor for the winter; a little rust forming over the winter was enough to result in a sticking valve. The remedy was to remove the valve cover, flood the valve stems with an oil can, and tap on the offending valve(s). Unnecessary problem, as a good shot of oil in the fall would prevent this problem. These huge engines didn't produce much horsepower by today's standards, but they had large amounts of torque. This tractor, and others built to a similar philosophy (big, slow-turning engine), would continue to pull when the load increased way beyond what was normal (heavy clay soil under the plow, for example). The IHC tractor that would have replaced the 10-20 (the McCormick-Deering W-4) had just slightly over half the displacement of the 10-20, but ran much faster. It produced about the same horsepower, but was seriously lacking in torque. A really heavy overload meant shifting to low gear (both tractors, like most in those days, were designed to plow and disk in second gear, somewhere around 3-3.5 mph). The 10-20 might slow down a bit, but it would keep right on pulling. The W-4 and it's cultivating sibling, the Farmall H, would slow down to the point where you HAD to downshift. There was a VERY rudimentary muffler, so the noise was considerable. The exhaust on the 1929 model comes out UNDER the gas tank, and poses a certain danger. There are hot bits of carbon coming out the pipe. If the engine is running while fuel is being put in the tank and the tank should overflow, there WILL be a fire. I saw it happen, with fatal results to a 14-year old boy. SHUT THESE THINGS OFF!! This tractor was designed specifically for kerosene, which was cheaper than gasoline in the 20s and 30s. The small fuel tank holds gasoline for starting (kerosene will NOT start when the engine is cold), and the large tank holds the kerosene. There are a couple of valves which control the flow of the fuels. Kerosene is a lot of trouble, Start on gas, warm up, switch to kerosene, KEEP THE ENGINE HOT by 1) working the tractor or 2) pulling up a blind in front of the radiator (our tractor had such a blind that came with the machine). If the engine were allowed to cool off for a few minutes, it would spit and sputter until it got hot again. This was so much trouble that most farmers I knew simply used gasoline and forgot about the small tank. The engine has a very low compression ratio, because kerosene will pre-ignite ("knock") if used in an engine designed for gasoline. Gasoline was not very efficient in these tractors, but there was usually no option to make it more efficient. Some people put in "high-altitude pistons," available from the mfrs. for use at (you guessed it) high altitudes. These raised the compression ratio to an extent. There were also all kinds of accessories available for tractors from outside suppliers. I believe high-compression pistons were available this way, and I know that there were manifolds that could be purchased that would make gasoline work better (the kerosene manifold is HOT, to make the fuel vaporize better; gasoline does not need this heat, and, in fact, vaporizes too much in such a manifold; I think the result is a too-lean mixture). If you look at F-20s and even 10-20s at tractor shows today, you very often see that the manifolds have been replaced with "gasoline" manifolds. These are very obvious because they eliminate much of the heavy cast-iron of the original manifolds--designed to heat most of the fuel-air coming in, so that the kerosene would vaporize better). I drove our 10-20 from about 1941 through 1951 or 1952, when my dad replaced it with a Farmall H. It is amazing how some things stick in your mind. I can still recall the feel of everything--the noise, the huge gearshift lever, the big iron steering wheel and the very-stiff steering, the clutch (the very uncarlike clutch on the RIGHT side!), the tiny throttle lever that was hard to reach, the magneto with the manual impulse that had to be set before cranking (OR you got a vicious backward throw of the crank when the engine fired too early), and even the feel and sound of the engine as you pulled up the crank. This is a trip down memory lane. I hope this isn't too much information. I have quite a bit of printed info on this tractor (the original operator's manual that I used to consult; original sales brochures describing the tractor, as well as the equipment that could be purchased to use with it; a repair manual published by IHC in the 20s). I'd be happy to share information, or even just "chat" by e-mail with people who have used these tractors.
    LenNH wrote on Wednesday, October 08, 2008 (PDT):
  • A brief reply this time, I have pictures of 10-20s, including the one I drove, and will be happy to help anyone who would like to see them.
    Darrel Gunderson wrote on Sunday, January 04, 2009 (PST):
  • Great article. My dad has a 29 on our farm that he still uses for gardening, but I think he would like to sell it as he is now 75 and getting hard to start it by him self. Also has steel wheels on another one for parts. Dont know the value of it? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
    Bob wrote on Thursday, January 15, 2009 (PST):
  • The correct paint for a grey McCormick teactor is DuPont Paint nimbers 98620 or 6923
    John Pool wrote on Saturday, May 30, 2009 (PDT):
  • Great to read about tour restoration we must think alike as i have just removed the pushrod guides and wondered what the holes are for ?Now wonder what keeps the water out of the sump?How did you go with them brazed up?Im in Cairns Queensland Australia found this 1928 1020 in a sugercane paddock been outside since 1928 so stuffed in a big way ,cant get the flywheel off at this stage any ideas regards John
    Mattie Duckworth wrote on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 (PST):
  • Randall, Hello. I enjoyed reading your article about this tractor. My father also restores old Mcormic deering regular 1020 tractors and w-30 models as well. He is searching desperately for a gas tank for one of the regulars that he has, and is having no luck!would you know anyone who may have one for sale? If you want to contact him his name is Fred Muffitt. His number is 620-397-2148. I sure would like to see him be able to reach his goals and dreams for this tractor. Once again, thanks for sharing your story. Mattie Duckworth
    Tony S. wrote on Thursday, November 19, 2009 (PST):
  • Read your article awhile ago. I was curious, so when I took my 10-20 engine apart, I checked out the pushrod guides. They don't open into the water jacket. It is an oil return area. With your holes brazed shut the oil won't be able to drain out of the pushrod guides.
    Jim Scopel wrote on Sunday, October 24, 2010 (PDT):
  • Interesting story.....We also have a McCormick Deering 1020 that we inherited and are looking to sell. We live in the UP of Michigan and wonder if there are collectors out there looking for any. We do have pictures we can email. Thanks! Jim
    John Gainsley wrote on Monday, May 07, 2012 (PDT):
  • 05/07/2012 Enjoyed your restoration story very much on the McCormick 1020 you gave us encouragement my son & I are in the prosses of restoring a 1020 believe a 1927 have it completely disasembled need some parts fenders. Thanks John
    John Bog wrote on Monday, March 25, 2013 (PDT):
  • We have a '29 10-20 which needs an exhaust valve. Is there a way to contact the author of this story? Thank you.
    LenNH wrote on Friday, September 27, 2013 (PDT):
  • I see that I commented--at maybe too-great length--on this article several years ago. In that article, I commented on the danger from the exhaust pipe being near the gas tank. I am going to add another note, this especially for guys who may have these old birds but didn't use them "back then." The manually-set impulse coupling needs to be checked BEFORE cranking, AND it needs to be checked again if the engine fires but does not continue to run. If a couple of cylinders fire and spin the engine a few turns, the impulse coupling may kick out and go into the running position (an over-center mechanism and a spring keep the impulse coupling out of engagement when the engine is running). Sometime in the thirties,IHC put automatic impulse couplings on the E4A mag, and it is certainly possible that an F-4, a Bosch, a Fairbanks-Morse, or maybe even some other brand of mags were put on some of these tractors when the original magneto gave up the ghost. The automatic impulse couplings are pretty reliable, especially if they are given a shot of light oil from time-to-time, but I remember that even then, the latch would sometimes not descend into the engaged position. The F-20 I spent a lot of time on had an F-4 with the automatic impulse. I remember that once in a while, the latch did not come down and engage the impulse coupling. You could hear a kind of clinking sound when the latch was working right. If this sound is not there, the latch may not be engaged and the engine may kick back. These engines are BIG and their kick is vicious. Another caution--don't give in to the temptation to spin the crank. This does not make the engine start any better. The impulse coupling spins the magneto and gives a hot spark. Spinning the crank won't add to the power of the spark. My father broke his arm spinning the crank of a Ford T, and I noticed that he NEVER spun the cranks of our tractors. A lesson learned young and probably painfully. I always made it a habit to retard the spark, but I am not sure if this would prevent a kickback. As you all know, the impulse coupling does two things--it holds the magneto shaft from turning until the point of release, when the magneto spins forward and gives a hot spark, but it also holds the magneto shaft until the piston is over top center. The engine cannot kick back if this is all working as it should.
    F30 wrote on Wednesday, January 15, 2014 (PST):
  • i LIKED THE STORY i AM DOING THE SAME THING TO MY 10-20. Ever thing was frozen on mine but I am sowly geting it back togather an haveing fun doing it. Red Puller
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