Posted by 1031D on January 21, 2013 at 08:40:59 from (126.96.36.199):
In Reply to: 630 posted by caseanonymous on January 20, 2013 at 13:30:11:
Biggest thing with carbs is they need to be clean and tight. This garbage gas we have makes matters worse because letting them sit a couple months can gum them up, then if you have an aluminum carb it will eat the metal. I just did a VAC TSX114 and the idle circuit was clogged solid with what looked like pine sap. I agree that most of the exchanged rebuilds are fairly poor, had a customer put one on his Allis, followed by a brand new aluminum Zenith/Bendix and after the fuel ate it I rebuilt the rebuilt carb and it's been running fine since. The throttle shaft needs to be tight, sloppy clearances allow dirt in and lower the manifold vacuum. Same with needles, if they're loose or grooved it's real hard to get them to meter right. I just finished an article for OAN on this for the spring issue. Most people think rebuilding a carb involves splitting the halves, cleaning the bowl, replacing the float valve and bowl gasket, but they often forget about the 2-3 brass orifice plugs for the idle and load circuits, or to remove the main nozzle and make sure the holes are opened. When I do a carb I strip it down as far as I can, then it goes into a 180* wash cabinet. After that, if things still won't move I throw it in the oven at 450* for an hour. You would be amazed at all the junk you find hidden in the passages. After it's stripped down to the bare castings I fish all the holes out with a piece of welding wire followed by a pin tip high pressure blow gun and some carb cleaner. You have to make sure all the gasket surfaces are FLAT as many bowls are subject to overtightening and warp as does the intake mounting flange. I have yet to give up on a carb, especially a Marvel Schebler. Rebuilding a carburetor is getting to be a lost art.
This post was edited by 1031D at 08:41:34 01/21/13.
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