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Submitted Article
Step-by-Step Carburetor Overhaul
1952 Ford 8N
by Don Stewart

<< Previous Page     Ford 8N Carbs and Kits     Next Page >>


Once the float needle is out, use a large, wide straight slot screwdriver to remove the float seat. This can be kinda tricky since the screwdriver bearing surface is so very small. Secure the upper body carefully in a soft-jaw vice for firm support and apply constant level pressure to the screwdriver to keep the blade from slipping. The seat is brass and is soft, but the threads will give in before the screwdrive slot gives way, as long as the screwdrive doesn't slip.

Next to the float seat is the idle jet seat. This is the jet into which the idle screw/needle fits when the carburetor is running on your tractor. Removing this tiny jet is also tricky since its bearing surface is even smaller than the float seat. Use the widest straightslot screwdriver that will fit the casting hole and fit into the idle jet slot. Same as before, keep the screwdrive from slipping and the jet will come out.

While it is a lot of work to get these parts out with destroying them, it is crucial to the rebuild that the boilout chemical be able to get into the passages behind these seats.

The rebuild kit provides you with a new float needle and seat, but not a new idle jet. If you damage the jet (ie. the seat is all galled such that the idle screw/needle won't fit into it) you will have to purchase a replacement. Annoying, but not expensive. An you will have learned why the screwdriver shouldn't be allowed to slip.

Assuming that your rebuild kit has the replacements, discard the old float needle, seat and gasket, and the old steel float retaining pin. Retain the idle jet (seat) and the float, and, of course, the upper carburetor body.

Purchase a sealed gallon of carburetor parts cleaner from your local automotive parts store. AutoZone/Checker/PepBoys/Kragen ... sell these one gallon cans, including a small parts basket inside for around $12-$15. Make sure it comes with a parts basket inside, you don't want to be getting this stuff on your fingers.

When working with carburetor cleaner use appropriate safety glasses and gloves. This stuff is caustic and if you get a few drops under you ring against your finger, it will burn until you can flush it with water.

Drop the upper carburetor body, idle jet (seat), the power mixyure screw/spring and idle mixture screw/spring into the parts basket and lower it into the cleaner. Make sure it is completely covered. Watch out for splashes!

While the upper body is in the soup, let's work on the lower body.

On the bottom of the lower body are, variously, one or two plugs. One (the float bowl plug) takes a wrench to remove, the other (power circuit plug) takes a straightslot screwdriver. Again select the largest scredriver that will fit the slot in the plug and don't let the screwdriver slip.


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