Choosing, Mounting and Using a Bush Hog Type Mower
by Francis Robinson
Looking around at my new neighbors, most of whom are city raised and have recently
acquired their first mini-farms of five to fifteen acres and also from reading questions ask at
various discussion sites on the web it is frighteningly apparent that a great many guys (and a few
gals) are learning by trial and error and mostly error how to use a very dangerous piece of farm
equipment. It is also very apparent that these folks are getting a lot of very poor and often very
dangerous advice from people who are often even more poorly informed than they are but still
more than willing to portray themselves as experts.
If I am going to claim to be the expert here, I guess I should give my basic credentials in
order to assure you that I am not just into my second year on three or four acres. I was born into
farming in 1942 when my dads 9N Ford Ferguson tractor was still just a couple of years old. By
1949 we had three tractors and today I farm with nine tractors. My first experience with a "bush-hog" type mower was about 1956 with a pull type Continental borrowed from a good friend and
neighbor. He pulled it behind a Farmall B which was too small for it but overloaded tractors
were the normal in those days. We hitched it to a Ferguson TO-20 which had been boosted to 30
horsepower with a piston and sleeve kit. That five-foot "hog" really pulled hard as it not only
had the regular cutter blade but also a second blade at a right angle about a foot above it and a
stationary blade mounted on each side half way between the other two blades. It not only cut the
brush but chopped it extra fine at the price of creating a tremendous PTO load.
Since that time I have always been on the farm even though I held several off farm jobs
and operated several small businesses. I even put in one year at Ball State University after high
school before deciding that it just wasn't me. I did spend five years in the late 1960's virtually
married to a computer system that would have filled a small house and two years in the late
1980's as farm manager on a local research farm with a major seed corn company. There we
grew test plots scattered over three states and harvested it with a computerized combine.
One of my part time enterprises was a mowing business mowing mostly rough
commercial properties some of which were so rough and full of old steel and concrete as to be
I might also mention here that I still have all of my fingers, toes, arms ETC. And have
never had a disabling injury (an awful lot of farm machinery users can't say that) (knock wood).
"Bush Hog" is a trade name which is almost universally used in a generic fashion to refer
to any brush cutting farm mower in general conversation and is so used here. Bush Hog Corp. Is
a division of Allied Products Corp. Bush Hog has a neat web site at http://www.bushhog.com .
When you set out to buy a bush hog, you should try to match it to your tractor. You
should not try to hang a six or seven-foot mower onto a little 25-HP tractor likewise a three-point
mower won't do you much good if your tractor isn't equipped for it. Your first mower question
is to decide between mounted or pull type. Most people prefer mounted, myself included but if
your tractor doesn't have a hydraulic lift your options are limited. Three point lift conversion
kits are available for most older farm tractors but they don't come cheap and if your tractor
doesn't have a hydraulic pump the cost of conversion could cost more than another tractor.
There are three primary disadvantages with a pull type mower. First they are harder to
back into corners and tight spots as they are essentially a two-wheel trailer. Second is the
problems caused by having to transmit power around a corner through the PTO shaft when
turning whereas a mounted mower is always sitting straight behind the tractor. Frequent sharp
turns can really eat the universal joints on the PTO shaft. The third problem is the biggest, I have
seen a bush hog pick up a rock the size of a volley ball and throw it fifty feet in front of the
tractor. If you use a pull type mower, you should have a very heavy screen guard mounted behind
the operator to catch sticks and stones. Always remember rule number one, never, ever bleed on
your tractor! If it gets the taste of human blood, you will have to have it put to sleep.
There are several different types of hitches on mounted mowers, category one three point
being the most common. This is the type of hitch you see on the 8N Ford and many similar
tractors. Many Allis Chalmers tractors use a snap coupler hitch which is attached under the
center of the tractor by a long tongue with a ring formed in the end of it, the implement is then
lifted by either chain or bar links attached to the upper lift arms. If desired this is an easy
conversion to three point. Some IHC farmalls use a two point "fast hitch" which has latching
sockets at the ends of the two lift arms to receive two matching prongs which extend from the
front of the implement. This also is an easy conversion to three point. This isn't to say that there
is anything wrong with either the Allis hitch or the IHC hitch it's just that the three point bush
hogs are easier to find.
Most older tractors were size rated more by how big a plow it would pull than by
horsepower and were referred to as "one bottom, two bottom" etc. Most one and two bottom
(about 16 to 30 HP) tractors were equipped with 1 1/8" PTO shafts while most larger tractors
were equipped with 1 3/8" PTO shafts. Since a larger tractor could use smaller implements the
factories starting producing everything with 1 3/8" couplers on their equipment, which produced
a lively market in PTO size adapters. This may or may not be a factor you will have to deal with,
most "farm and suburban" stores carry these.
Regardless of the possible need for a size adapter unless your tractor has a "live" or
"independent" PTO (tractor ground travel will stop while the PTO shaft keeps running) you will
definitely need an "over-running clutch" attachment. If your tractor uses a hand clutch to obtain
a live PTO such as an Allis CA, WD, WD-45 ETC. And a foot clutch for normal driving I would
also recommend an over-running clutch as sometimes in a tight spot it is hard to remember to
grab the hand clutch. If you have a tractor like a John Deere or a number of others that have a
hand clutch for normal driving, you will already be used to grabbing for it. If you don't use an
over-running clutch, the flywheel effect of the bush hog can push the tractor ahead even with
your foot on the clutch and the other on the brake, you won't be able to take the tractor out of
gear until after it is smashed tightly up against a large walnut tree (don't ask how I learned that).
I will go through the attachment of a bush hog to a category one three-point tractor such
as the 8N Ford or similar unit as that is extremely popular with mini-farms and is one of the
safer setups. Do not attempt to use a bush hog until you become familiar with driving the tractor
by itself and have a good feel for it. Using a bush hog is not like using a large lawn mower!
Start of course by backing up to the mower as accurately as you can to line up the ball
connectors on the lift arms with the pins on the mower, this is more important than you might
think as many backs have been injured trying to lift the implement to move it to line it up with
the tractor (sometimes a six-foot pry bar helps). Connect the lift arm which does not have the
leveling crank or device (usually the left one)first. Insert the lynch pin in the hole and if you are
going to mow in a brushy area put a wire through the ring and around the lift arm so that a stick
can't lift the ring (trust me). You will want to buy a good supply of these inexpensive little dudes
at the farm store as elves carry them off at night. Next connect the other lift arm which you can
now crank up or down to line up with the pin. It can be easier to move the tractor forward or
back carefully to line it up than to pry the mower around. Insert the lynch pin and wire this one
down also if needed. Always fasten the top link last. Attach it to the mower first then connect it
to the tractor from the seat while carefully using the hydraulic lift to lift the front of the mower.
Next SHUT OFF THE TRACTOR while connecting the PTO shaft, most use a button/pin you
push in while sliding the splines together. Be sure the button/pin engages the groove in the shaft
and pops out fully. This is a good spot for a little oil. Some couplers need a pin through a hole
in the shaft instead, if so buy a regular PTO pin or if you use a bolt be sure it is just long enough
to fit. You don't want anything sticking out to wrap up grass or maybe even parts of you.
If you are using a pull type mower the PTO shaft should be shielded even though you
should never get off your tractor with any bush hog while the mower is running or even coasting
to a stop. If you are using a mounted mower on a tractor that you climb on from the back the
shields are even more important than ever as some of these shafts run very close to the operator.
A spinning PTO shaft can grab an article of clothing with unbelievable speed and your body will
usually follow at which point you are history, often causing someone you love, to have to
discover someone they love, wrapped around a still spinning shaft in a bloody pulpy mass. Sit
and think about that for a minute.
Now to the using part. If possible you will want to make use of some kind of anti-sway
device. On an 8N Ford and others like it, this consists of two bars that attach to short pins on
brackets which are mounted to the bottom end of the fender mounting bolts under the axle with
the other end fastened to the pins on the mower. These were an option so you may have to pick
up a set at a farm store. These are not required but if you don't have them the mower can swing
off to one side usually at the worst possible time, like at the corner of a building or next to your
wife's favorite fruit tree.
It can be almost impossible to maintain a proper mowing height with many tractors
particularly the Ford Ferguson 9N and 2N or the Ferguson TO-20 and TO-30. The 8N Ford and
some of the Allis tractors had "position control" settings that sort of work but not really great. A
better solution is an adjustable linkage often made with heavy chain which allows the mower to
lift freely, but limits how low to the ground it will go. The New Idea Corp. (a quality short line
equipment builder with a long history) had a system where two chains attached from the pins on
the mower in an inverted "V" with the upper ends attached to the tractor at the top link mount.
This also serves as an anti-sway device when the mower is down. The upper end of the chains fit
into a keyhole shaped hole in the upper bracket which allows you to change height settings. The
lower brackets were welded directly to the chain and have holes to fit over the pins. A
blacksmith or welding shop can make you a set.
If your mower has a tail wheel (highly recommended) your top link connection should
allow for some movement of the rear of the mower separately from the front. Often this is
provided by a chain or section of chain in the links from rear top link connection to the rear of
the mower. Some makers use a slotted hole connection of different types at the rear top link
connection. Some provide you with nothing, which won't do a smooth job on rougher ground.
Do not ever replace the top link from the tractor to the mower with a chain, If the leading edge
of the mower hits a solid obstacle the mower can pivot almost 180 degrees on the lift pins
crushing the operator on the seat with the rear of the mower faster than you can say "squish."
I recently read of someone advising a beginner to set the front of the mower four inches
higher than the back which is ok for a few problem spots but unless you have horsepower to
burn it will really strain your engine. Think about it a minute. You will cut it once at the front,
you will be cutting it two inches shorter in the middle, and you will be cutting it off another two
inches at the rear. You never stop cutting that same blade of grass the whole time it is under the
mower. You will also be cutting the grass two inches shorter in the center of the cut than you
will at either side, leaving a washboard appearance as you look across the entire lot. If you set
the mower about ½" to 1" lower in the front than the back it will operate with less engine pull
because after the first cut at the front the mower, the blade never touches that stubble again.
Now I will make some of you mad, many of you can't resist allowing your children to
ride with you as you mow. There is a word for that. It's spelled "S-T-U-P-I-D"! ! ! Sorry, I can't
be any kinder. It's bad enough to fall from a tractor and be run over and crushed (and yes,
children do fall from tractors often) but to be chopped up by a bush hog? Spend another minute
thinking about that one. These are not toys folks. The bush hog type mower can be one of the
most dangerous pieces of farm equipment in production today. Another major hazard is the fact
that you are often driving nearly blind in tall grass, weeds and brush and often on very rough
terrain with hills and ditches that can cause an overturn. My very lucky brother-in-law turned his
tractor over on level ground by hitting an eight-inch tall stump. A roll bar (rops) on a mowing
tractor is money well spent. If you think you can just jump clear, your just kidding yourself. Do
not allow anyone to stand around where you are mowing (remember that volley ball sized rock I
As I sit here in my home office writing this article, my police scanner jumped to life
with an emergency call. As this sad mini drama unfolded over the next half hour or so I couldn't
help but notice the irony. A local radio announcer that I am acquainted with was mowing a lot
when his three-year-old grandson ran up behind him and tried to jump onto the back of the
mower. You could hear the extra level of anguish in the voices of the dispatchers, paramedics
and veteran officers as they called for the Lifeline Helicopter from Indianapolis Methodist
Hospital and announced that his leg was amputated just below the knee.
This is the next day and the child is critical but will probably live, what a price. Like I
said before, "these things are not toys" keep children completely away!
|Fast Shipping! Most of our stocked parts ship within 24 hours (M-Th). Expedited shipping available, just call! Most prices for parts and manuals are below our competitors. Compare our super low shipping rates! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor. We are a company you can trust and have generous return policies. Shop Online Today or call our friendly sales staff toll free (800) 853-2651. [ About Us ]|
| Copyright © 1997-2016 Yesterday's Tractor Co.|
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters