My 1994 Autolite catalog shows a 295 as a 18mm, 3/8" reach, standard tip and non-resistor. The 303 is three heat ranges cooler (resistor type) however there is a 292 (non-resistor)which is the coldest plug in the heat range. I would suggest going with the 292 just to remove the spark plug as a possible problem cause. Since you have raised the compression ratio you will likely want to run a colder plug as standard practice and the 303 may be the right plug after you get the problem sorted out.
As others have posted high idle speed can/will promote the run on problem. If you remember many cars in the 70's used a solenoid to set the idle speed. When the ignition was shut off the solenoid allowed the throttle butterfly valve to close off. I am not suggesting you need a throttle solenoid; only to say the idle setting is important.
91 octane fuel should be plenty good for 8.5:1 compression however two octane numbers can make a big difference. If 93 octane is available I would suggest trying it. If 93 octane no ethanol is available then adding 10% -15% of E-85 would kick it another 1 to 2 octane numbers. After that you will need to go with race gas or airplane fuel. Once you find a fuel that actually allows it to shut down without run on you will have an idea of how big or if you have a problem.
The real issue (to me) is what is the compression ratio. Yes the pistons may be 8.5:1 but with what deck height, head gasket thickness, chamber volume.....? Shutting off at idle is one thing but to develop full cylinder pressure at power and not detonate is the bigger concern. Detonation at full power will fail parts - run on at idle sounds nasty but does little damage.
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