2. Mine has no trouble with 500 lb bales, would say 1000 is prolly the limit I'd go to.
3. if it doesn't have fluid, and/or your foot is on the clutch, no lifty. Check dipstick, RS under gas tank. Takes universal hytran,
4. Several OEM types available, both a true 3-point hitch, and an adapter. I prefer the SC with adapter, as the factory 3 point direct mount is held on by bolts that point upward, and can work loose, check these for loose bolts, welds, over-size replacement bolts, not uncommon problem.
5. Hand clutch, for high, neutral and low, from front to back. PTO, Hyds still run, when the hand clutch is in neutral. It it's series 2 the thumb button will have a guard around the front and right edge.
6. PTO on forward, off back.
7. !49/round muffler, 160 oval muffler.
8. Check out 3rd gear, by cresting a steep hill, and seeing if it pops out of gear, when the backlash starts. See also #4.
9. on left side of tractor, where motor meets torque tube, hand stamped in the flange of the torque tub, at about 45 angle to horizontal. Tractor motor # is about an inch forward of serial#. Not unusual for battery acid to have obliterated the legibility of the hand stamped (lightly) numbers.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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