I'm sure part of your challenge is working with 6 plus decades of worn linkage. Everything depends on everything else! There is a big coil spring down underneath (it actually surrounds the PTO shaft when the shaft is in place). There are removable shims on both sides, under a clip/bolt, if I remember correctly, which are removable to compensate for the aging, weakening spring. Everything you pull from the drawbar is pulling on this load spring. As draft increases, the spring compresses, and the arm going up to the hydraulic pump moves. You loosened screw A to allow that arm to move the lever on the side of the control housing. (Sorry, I can't remember if it screws all the way out. I think the spring is supposed to keep tension on it so it doesn't work out) And of course there are the traction/draft/soil conditions. If you lack enough traction(ballast/tires/too wet) you'll never get it right. The plow needs to want to bury itself, so the whole above described mechanism can go to work. IF all of that is in proper order, then you should be able to find a spot on the quadrant where the lever basically sets the plow depth, and the system automatically maintains an equilibrium between depth/draft/traction. Finding that spot is a matter of trial and error. There is no direct correlation between the marks and cylinder position. They are just there as a guide. It has been decades since I plowed with one of these. We would drop the lever all the way, then as the tractor/plow progressed and the plow sucked in, move the lever up accordingly to set depth/traction control. But then that was a WD45 not over 10 years old, in excellent condition, loaded tires, one set of weights, and a three bottom plow. If you stop in the furrow with any properly adjusted draft control system, you should be able to see the plow sag, then pick up as you start forward again. Hope this makes sense.
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