Posted by Ralphwd45 on November 06, 2012 at 12:34:59 from (66.243.215.161):
4 yrs ago I split the tractor, and installed a new clutch in it. I put the 3/32" (or thereabouts) shims back in it, that were originaly there. After trying it out, it had excessive creep, in gear with the clutch released and I didn't like that, so I opened it up again, and added a .010 shim to all 3 points, closed it back up, and still had some creep, but it was better. Now the handle falls out of engagement, at the worst times, like loading manure on a slick surface, when stopping momentarily, means being stuck. I opened it up yesterday and pulled the 3 .010 shims out, and went back to work. It still falls foreward at times, and is only a little bit better.When I read about removing the shims to get more life from the clutch, does that mean that I should remove the 3 thick shims? Will the clutch still work, with those removed?
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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