If you have the block "boiled out" with the cam bearings installed in it, the process will most likely destroy the cam bearings. Worn cam bearings are one of the causes for lower than normal oil perssure in these engines. Recommend that they be replaced if there any question.
The "split" type bushings usually require a better installation method than the solid type in my opinion. If the cost for the "shop" to install the cam bearings/bushings is not too high, that is probably the best way to go. Check the cam journals for wear. The bushings were available .002 undersize - at one time (for worn journals).
Are you sure that you want to "boil out" the block? If it is "painted" (a dark reddish brown color) inside the block, I would NOT recommend "boiling it out" as it will remove the "paint". This "paint" is a sealer for the cast iron and prevents oil "seeping through" any porosity in the casting. If the engine is original and has never been "boiled out" it is likely that it still has the "paint" inside the block. I would not recommend removing this paint. Just my opinion. Actually the block is fairly easy to clean with a "power washer" or at a "car wash".
Recommend "K&W Copper Coat" head gasket sealer for the head gasket if it is the metal type. Also recommend the metal type (rather than the fiber type) head gasket, if you can get it.
You might want to "glue" the valve cover gasket to the valve cover and "grease" the gasket surface next to the cylinder head (with a good high temperature grease). You will likely have the valve cover "off and on" a few times if you follow the cylinder head bolt re-torquing and valve clearance adjusting recommendations in the manual. (The manual recommendations will likely prevent a blown head gasket, if followed)
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
... [Read Article]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.